
COMPOSITE BULLETS FOR DO-IT-YOURSELF CRAFTSMEN
===============================================

PUBLIC DOMAIN:

This document as well as all ideas and information represented
herein shall forthwith be "public domain". Any and all future
revisions of or additions to this document as well as ideas and
information such revisions and additions may represent shall
likewise become "public domain".
  
WORK IN PROGRESS:

Information in this document is presented as "work in progress". 
This document is merely the most recent draft of what hopefully
will be followed by numerous subsequent revisions, incorporating 
information, thoughts and ideas from numerous interested parties.
Hopefully these introductory notes will evolve into comprehensive
reference material on COMPOSITE BULLETS... oriented especially
from the perspective of... and specifically for the benefit of..
do-it-yourself home craftsmen... covering practical fabrication
processes using economical tools and materials... and (hopefully)
accompanied by... loading data and test results for a wide range
of calibers and applications. All observations, impressions,
comments, and suggestions from interested parties are not just
welcome... but sincerely solicited.

Dean King                    Email address:  PolyJack @aol.com
907 Canyon Drive
Midland, Texas  79703             

*********************************************************************
NOTE: The above is only the opening of a document I'm working on now.
I have already expanded it (in concept) from what I originally had
in mind (to cover other "composites" in addition to "lamination").
It will probably take me at least a month to cover what I want to.
I'm not sure how large it will be... but I'll probably transmit it
in compressed format... I'll have to decide that later. 
*********************************************************************
For now.. I have several people waiting for details on "lamination".
So this file is just a semi-quickie... incorporating excerts from
my earlier postings (on "reloader" board)... plus some correspondence
on the subject... plus some notes added while assembling this file. 
*********************************************************************

Homemade Polymer Bullets 
=========================
                              
INTRODUCTION: (some background)
 
In the early '60s, Elmer Keith (father of the
.44 Mag.) published articles on long-range handgun
shooting.  I tried it... and was "hooked" solid.
When handgun metallic silhouette came along in the
'70s, that was a super turn-on; but I couldn't
afford to travel real competition matches... so I
did a lot of solitary "gong" shooting.

Speaking of AFFORD: I've always been a "poor boy".
All my shooting has been on a severe budget. I
wanted the high velocity capabilities of copper
jacketed bullets but they cost too much; so I had
to find less some expensive alternative.

I read about "paper-patch" loads used by 19th
century buffalo hunters and long-rangers shooters;
and found the technique satisfactory for single-
shot actions (T/C Contender) because the patch can
be seated directly into the rifling. Patch loads
won't work in revolvers... because the patch tears
up in the forcing cone... and you can't crimp
them. And they hand-up in autoloader magazines.

About five years ago it became difficult for me to
open a T/C Contender action (due to arthritis)...
so I started searching for another jacket-bullet
alternative that could be crimped for revolvers
and magazine fed for autoloaders.

For those not familiar with 19th century paper
patches: The patch was cut to a width just shy of
two complete wraps around the bullet diameter. It
was moistened with water then rolled on a flat
work surface; which resulted in a snug (slightly
stretched) fit around the bullet. The length was
from the shoulder to just past the base of the
bullet, leaving a "skirt" which was tucked into  
a hollow base or folded over on solid base bullet.
After the patch shrink-dried, it was lubricated.
Adhesives were not used. The patch would unwrap
immediately on leaving the muzzle. It was a good
system ... but only for single shots guns.

I spent over four years trying and discarding a
couple of dozen "sabot" type gizmos, searching for
a projectile configuration that would meet the
following criteria:
   (1) It had to rival factory made copper
          jacketed bullets in performance.
   (2) It had to be "dirt cheap". (meaning no
          expensive components or equipment).
   (3) It had to work in any type of gun. 


"Eureka.... I FOUND IT":

Would you believe that I can (therefore YOU can)
make high performance bullets at home... on the
kitchen table if necessary... using junk lead...
wheel weights, battery plates (no super alloy)...
plus newspapers and Acrylic Latex wall paint?
Believe it... Would I lie to you?

It finally occurred to me. You have don't dump the
patch when it leaves the bore. You just make it
the "jacket" layer of a "laminated" bullet. I went
back to the 19th century idea; but instead of just
wetting the patch with water, I give it a coat of
ACRYLIC POLYMER.

I first tried "Elmer's" household glue (you know,
the white stuff); but it is vinyl. It will melt
then burn. Acrylic (with direct flame applied)
will scorch but shows no signs of melting or
burning. (*NOTE* I'm not a chemical engineer. I'm
just reporting observations from my preliminary
kitchen stove testing... and from bore cleaning
after shooting.)

SOME NITTY-GRITTY DETAILS:

I mentioned newspaper. Actually did use it at
first; and the finished product is just fine.
But, pulp paper is very fragile when wet. It tears
too easily. I've also used heavy brown wrapping
paper. But, it tends to unroll before it's dry.    
My preferred patch material is computer paper. It
handles well when wet and stays rolled, provides
more thickness per layer than newspaper, and can
be "laid out" with cutting lines on a printer.

Acrylic latex wall paint works just fine; but I've
been using some "artist" acrylics that were given
to me. They have a nice glossy finish that I like.
Incidentally, for color-coded loads, just use
different colors of acrylics for the bullets.

Since the polymer-paper composite is a "jacket",
it has to be thicker than just a "patch"; so it's
rolled to form multi-layer lamination. The cast
bullet mold is always smaller caliber than the
finished projectile.

  Examples:  .44/.45   load .... .357/9mm  mold
             .357/9mm  load .... .308/.311 mold   
             .308/.311 load ....  7mm/.257 mold    
              7mm/.257 load ....  6mm/.223 mold 
          ***.223 non-standard undersize mold   
  
Multi-layer lamination is best applied in stages,
allowing inner layers to dry before rolling outer
layers. The best method I've found for drying is a
little electric hotplate made for keeping a single
coffee mug at drinking temperature (warm not hot).
I rotate 2 or 3 metal jar lids; while loading one
with fresh rolled bullets another is on the drier. 

****************************************************
RECENT REVISION:    (one-step lamination)
****************************************************

Multi-stage lamination (alloy inner layers to fully
dry... before add more layer) is what I've always
done... BUT... it's s-l-o-w... because it involves
multiple steps. To help speed up the fabrication
process, I've begun to try applying all they layers
in one step (before drying) *** results seem OK ***
BUT... you have to determine the total number of laps
for the bullet/bore combination you're loading for.

Here's the best medthod I've found:  Do several test
rolls, in which you let inside (starting) end of the
paper protrude (at the bullet nose) so that it's not
hidden by subsequent layers. That will facilitate
(by trial and error) finding the lateral-length you
need to reach the bore-diameter you need, while the
inner and outer ends will "butt-joint" (not overlap).
Remember: Overlap will create a high-spot, while too
wide a butt-joint will leave a low-spot.

Test rolling... adjusting by trial and error... is the
only reliable means of getting the paper-size correct.

*******************************************************  
MORE ON ONE-STEP LAMINATION:   (revision)
*******************************************************  

Misc. Notes:

(1) Remember: Acrylic Ploymer does not bond securely to
a metal surface (such as a bare lead bullet). Therefore,
the "shrink-fit" of a tightly rolled patch, and a good
"bead" of acrylic material dried and hardened into every
bullet-groove is what holds you "jacket" in place. So...
be sure groove are full, the patch is rolled tightly, and
fully dried... preferably with low heat... ("cook"it on).

(2) About heat-assisted drying:  As stated, I use a small
coffee-warmer hot plate, which works fine for small batches.
For larger batches, a small cookie sheet or pan could be
heat dried it a kitchen-range oven  (*** no microwave ***).
Use very low heat (about 150 degrees... sub-boiling temp).
Remmember: You want to "cook" the water out of the polymer;
but boiling causes bubbles, which you certainly don't want. 
Stand your bullets upright (on bases) close but too close.
If one falls over and drys lying on its side, it will have
a flat spot. If two dry touching each other they will stick
together. You can break them apart easily; but each will have
a scar... (sometimes a bullet sizing die will salvage them). 

(3) Look a roll of tape. The tape is machine-rolled. Notice
how smoothe the sides are? Actually, it is "laminated" onto
the roll. Unless you have super-human machine-like dexterity
in your fingers (that far exceeds my-own) you patches won't
be as neat as a machine-rolled of tape. But, with practice,
they will get better. During rolling, acrylic material will
be squeezed out to fill gaps created by uneven edged.  

(4) How far you extend your patch (or jacket) toward the nose
of your bullet should be gaged by the shape and depth of the
"nose-punch" you will be using to seat the bullet at loading.
Your patch-jacket has to be short enough to not be deformed
during bullet seating.

(5) You are bound to have some rejects when you inspect a
finished batch. I still have rejects; but seldom too bad to
use for "what-th-heck" plinking... I just toss "irregulars"
into my "plinker" box.

*******************************************************  
END REVISION
*******************************************************  

Acrylic readily bonds to itself except in the
presence of oil or grease (including skin oil).
Fortunately, rolling will quickly coat fingers
with polymer so skin oil is a problem only when
fingers are clean. Acrylic is non-irritating to
bare skin (of most people), and washes off hands
with soap and water. But remember: on (non-oily)
porous materials (such as clothing) acrylic is
nearly impossible to remove after it dries.

PATCH DIMENSIONS:

Lateral (wrap-around) size should be measured in
multiples bullet circumference, which increases
with successive layers. The size you cut your
patches is determined... first, by estimation
and... finally, by observation. The outer end of
the should fall just short of the inner end. Size
should NEVER be less than TWO and (probably) no
more than FOUR complete wraps. Five or more wraps
are more difficult to control while rolling and 
slower to properly dry.

Longitudinal patch size depends upon bullet length
and design. Inner layers should be a bit shorter
than outer layers. I prefer some overlap to form
tapered a shoulder and "boattail" base. I don't
leave any "skirt" at the base (as oldtimers did).


BULLET DESIGN:

19th century patch bullets were cast smooth with 
no lube grooves. The patch had to separate with as
little restriction as possible. In the case of
Polymer jackets, the lube groves in modern cast
bullets help prevent separation. Polymer shrinks
as it dries; so the grooves should be as full as
you can get them. The inner layer should be no
more than two wraps and fully dried before adding
more layers. Lube grooves will produce radial
bands in the finished jacket, which facilitate
crimping. Bullets with gas-check grooves at the
base help to achieve a "boattail" taper. 

MISC. INFO:

A small section of window glass about 12" square
makes a fine rolling surface... and cleans easily.
Small cookie sheets work well too.

Use a small(cheap) artist brush to apply polymer.
A small container of water should be kept handy.
Don't let polymer dry on the brush; it will get
stiff and useless.

Polymer drys pretty fast. Keep only a small amount
in an open container. Keep the main supply sealed.
  
THE FINISHED PRODUCT:

Bullet diameter and surface blemish touchup can be
fine-tuned by rolling or brushing on small amounts
of polymer (without patch material)... as needed.
To add surface lubrication, wallow bullets around
in a plastic bag, after squirting in some silicon
or teflon spray; then pour them out to dry.  

BULLET CHARACTERISTICS AND PERFORMANCE:

Even when fully dry, polymer jackets are "soft"
(compared to copper and lead). The composite of
polymer and fiber in the paper is resilient and
very tough. Precise diameter is somewhat less
critical than with hard surface bullets. If it is
slightly undersize, the base will "swell" to seal
without being permanently deformed. If slightly
oversize it will compress (to a degree) without
extreme increases in resistance and pressure.

I haven't done any serious testing of penetration
and expansion; but I will offer some speculation:
Polymer jacketed are longer and "slicker" than
weight-comparable lead/copper counterparts; with 
increased bearing surface, velocity, and sectional
density. The net effect should be favorable for
accuracy, down-range ballistics, and penetration.
They should be cast from softer alloy than is
recommend for bare cast bullets. The composite
jacket is soft and tough. I don't think extreme
"mushroom" terminal performance would result. 
But... Hey... Why don't YOU test them YOURSELF.    

LOADING:

If you're an experienced reloader, polymers will
be lighter and "slicker" than what you've been
loading. Work up loads... wisely... and safely. 

"PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT":

Remember: You are not a precision machine. Don't
expect to just start rolling perfect bullets right
away. If you're an experienced reloader, that you
know that  consistency is the only way to achieve
accuracy. Remember: Consistency of polymer applied
to the patch and consistency of finger pressure
during rolling will always effect consistency of
polymer bullets. If you're an experienced shooter,
you know the more bullets you shoot, the better
you'll shoot. The more polymer bullets you roll,
the better you'll roll... THE NEXT ONE.

These "roll-your-own" bullets will probably never
hit a chipmunk between the eyes at 400 yards; but
they will hit an aggressor between the armpits at
half that distance. It just takes practice.

DISADVANTAGES OF POLYMER BULLETS:

If there are disadvantages, I haven't found them.

**************************************************
The forgoing was the original (3 part) posting.
**************************************************
NOTE: I got on America Online... and installed
TV cable the same week (recently). Not being an
avid student of chemical and scientific journals,
I really was not aware of what a tremendous range
of "space age" materials are called "polymers" 
until I started watching the "Discovery Channel".
**************************************************
So "polymer bullets" is too vague in this case. 
**************************************************
What follows here is a sort of... "reader's digest"
of messages on the topic from the "reloader" board.
**************************************************

From:	Keith9600

I await word from PolyJack, but it seems to me that the advantage is that you
can drive pure, very soft lead bullets at speeds that would lead the h... out
any regular barrel.

That way, of course, you have a good expanding bullet that will still drive
deep, as some of the hollow point bullets won't do.

Just an educated guess on my part.

Seems to me that PolyJack was trying to get the advantages of a jacketed
bullet, such as freedom to drive at respectable speeds to get high energy
figures and still have a clean barrel!
Problem with jacketed bullets has always been that you sacrifice the
beautiful expanding capabilities of a pure lead projectile, when you encase
it in a tougher, harder material like copper.

There are advantages and disadvantages to clad bullets, of course. Pick your
poison.

Questions arise with the use of pure lead bullets, like PJ has proposed, such
as base melting/deformation, but that's for another time, another discussion.

Neat idea, huh?

Later,  Keith
**************************************************

From:  WilliamTel

It seems to me that your home rolled bullets might be very useful to some of
us with antique or uncommon guns.  These guns don't see too much use and
often have bore sizes that make standard bullets inaccurate or unusable.  

For other applications one would be further ahead to work a few odd jobs and
then buy bullets.  Time is (or can be) money.

A better name for your bullets would be Composite Bullets as they are mainly
lead and not petrochemical based.  I thought you might be making them out of
epoxy when I read the title of your letter.

I hope I don't sound too critical.  I think it's great that you are exploring
new methods.  I am going to try making up a few "roll your owns" for my
Sharps .45-70.  The bore diameter is .460 and I don't want to buy a custom
bullet mold if I don't have too.
**************************************************
From:  PolyJack

To all Reloaders:

Since posting "Homemade Polymer Bullets" (parts 1,2,3), I've had
only a few communications and inquiries... but those were enough
for me to realize that I left something fairly important unsaid.
Let me phrase it here as a question: 

Should you consider rolling laminated polymer bullets... or not?

No one but you...  can answer that for you.... except you?
 
I can't speak for you.... but I can speak for me... so I will.

I've been shooting and reloading almost 40 years now. If it didn't
mean something... (something very, very personal to me)... I guess
I wouldn't do it. I've never been financially able to afford it...
not without scrimping, and scraping, and saving every dime I can
everywhere I can. If I had to restrict my shooting to factory ammo
or even factory bullets... I would have given up my No. 1 favorite
hobby... many, many years ago. Of course I wouldn't have wanted to
give it up... but the prices of of ammo and components would have
simply disqualified me from any participation at all.

Now, all of the above is absolute financial fact of life (for sure).
Ah... but that doesn't really tell the whole story.

The 19th century buffalo hunters used "roll-yer-own" ammunition.
Ammunition was their very livelihood. For modern manufacturers and
vendors... ammunition is their livelihood. But for me ammunition is
a hobby. It always has been. I Certainly enjoy shooting... but not
really any more the I enjoy the "do-it-yourself" aspect of loading
my own ammo with my own hands. It a sort of "art-form" for me. All
through almost 40 years of this hobby... if I could have afforded
to "buy" all the ammo I wanted, any time I wanted it, I would have
probably gotten terribly bored and quit shooting many years ago.

The reason diamonds are valuable is because they're sort of hard
to acquire. That is... I don't just go out in my back yard and
gather them up. Do you?  I've bought a diamond or two in my life;
but it wasn't easy.  Every payment was a special achievement.

Making a shot at 200 meters with a handgun is an achievement too.
It "feels good". It feels even better to know that none of the
component venders and none of the equipment manufacturers really
made the bullet that made the shot. I made it with my own hands 
  
Rolling polymer-paper laminated bullets is may seem very tedious.
Should YOU do it?  I don't know.  Nobody knows that... BUT YOU.

**************************************************
From:  Duck guy

Can anyone with a bit more on the ball about chemistry than I have give this
polymer bullet patching a think over?  Are there any potential hazards from
chemical reactions/either in case (powder/lubes/oil reactions) or in the
chamber/bore/muzzle trip after ignition.  I think I'd like to try out some of
the concepts PolyJack has been kind enough  to share here but want to be sure
I'm around long enough to share back the results.  Hate to sound like a
fraidy cat on this but... This is an area I'm only smart enough about to know
that it might be a problem.  Anyone help?

**************************************************
From:  JerryT4881

I've been following PJ's postings about polymer coating bullets, and you
raise the question, what problems might arise (chemical wise) by shooting
these.

Well, I don't recall (and am too lazy) to go back and find out exactly what
type of polymer is being used, but polymers are made from monomers, which
typically are hydrocarbon based (ie polyethylene milk jugs are made from
polymerized ethylene).  Resins used in glues/paints are also hydrocarbon
based.  What do hydrocarbons do, they burn.  BUT, depending on whats used,
they will be less likely to burn if they are large molecules or crosslinked.
Now there's no way of knowing if you have large molecules (well you can, but
the instrument costs $40,000), but there is a way that you can crosslink.
Epoxy's crosslink, that's why they come in 2 tubes.  They would be less
likely to burn due to the crosslinking.  Also, crosslinked polymers do not
melt (try melting a tire).  If your barrel heats up because of use,
non-crosslinked polymers will melt/deform, and could make a big mess, and not
chamber...

My conclusion, use epoxy if possible, but if not I doubt any serious problems
anyway.  The amount of energy needed to burn it is very high...

**************************************************
From:  PolyJack

Subj:  PPL (Polymer chem spec and crude test)

Attn:  JerryT4881 and Duck guy (and others... Whoever)

Maybe it would help to clarify... everything... if I state my
original "goal"... as simply as I can. I wanted a practical
substitute for copper jacket bullets (which simply cost too
much). It had to be capable of velocities higher than (BARE)
cast lead-alloy can handle. It also had to be "cheap".
It also had to be (crimpable) for use in revolver loads.
I was also hoping for magazine and ramp-feed autoloading.   
(* Other considerations soon became important also *)

The reason I use Acrylic Polymer for my "PPL" process is because,
as mentioned in my first (instructional) posting... I had already
tried and abandoned several other approaches. Over about a 4 yr
period, I tried about 20 or so "break-away" sabot and patch
configurations... using several different materals including:  
teflon, vinyl, polyethylene, polyurethane, some materials in
sheet form, some applied in liquid state, parafin (canning wax),
wax paper, seran wrap, aluminum foil, paper (thick and thin),
cardboards, fabrics, tapes and adhesives, "hot-melt" glue...
and (Yes, EPOXY fans) I tried your "old faithful" too. 

The only materials I still use are PAPER and ACRYLIC POLYMER.
(Correction: I also use aliminum foil along with paper for a
similar but different type of fabrication. More on this later). 
All the others proved unsatisfactory... for various reasons...
mostly because they melt and/or burn. Acrylic Polymer does not. 

BURN TEST: 
I used long pliers to hold samples of finished bullets into
direct flame of a kitchen stove burner until the lead started to
soften (about 12 minutes, including brief instections). The
composite material also softened slightly (just enough to deform
when deliberately squeezed with pliers). The edge of PPL jacket
glowed dull-red while in the direct flame; but appeared to just
"scortched" rather than "melted" or "burned". There is slight
deterioration of the exposed edge. The composite may "gasify"
under sustained heat; but (apparently) does not "liquify" at all.
Surprisingly little "smell" resulted from my burn-test. Mostly,
it smelled like burned paper. When these bullets are are loaded
and fired, they leave no deposits that I can distinguished from
the usual gun powder residue. 
 
Jerry: I don't know if these acrylic polymers are "crosslinked".
I have four containers here. One is Acrylic Latex paint. It says:
"Acrylic Resin (57.5%); Additives(1.2%); Glycol(8.2%); and Water
(33.1%)". The other 3 containers are artist's acrylics. They just
say "Acrylic Polymer" plus color pigments. The one I use most is
called "Gesso". It contains titanium instead of lead as non-toxic
white pigment. Artists use it as canvas primer, serving as the
foundation for oil-based paints. Oil will bond to acrylic; but
acrylic WILL NOT bond to oil. In the imulsion state it's soluble
in water and incompatable with oil. After drying, acrylic is
virtually impervous to both water and oil. Petroleum solvants
won't phase it. The only solvent that works is Alcohol.

Sorry, that's all the chemical information I have about the
ACRYLIC POLYMERS I use for PPL bullets. I hope this helps.    
**************************************************
From:  PolyJack

My PPL fabrication process is based *** ENTIRELY UPON *** 
the principle of "lamination".

Special note to EPOXY fans: Yes, yes, I tried it. I really is a
fine bonding agent for many, many purposes... but not for mine.
It is quite expensive... and I found it rather "hostile" to use. 
Mixing two seperate ingredients is a pain in the (expletive).
Because it sets up so fast, you have to restrict youself to
extremely small (mixxed) batches... and hurry, hurry, hurry.
I don't like to be forced to hurry. Certain "retarding agents"
can be used to increase working "batch life" (but of course
they're expensive also). ACRYLIC POLYMER sets up quickly too...
which requires a special "retarding agent" called "tap water"
(which suits me fine since I'm a died-in-the-wool "cheapskate").
Additionally, Epoxy is extremely "unfriendly" to your skin and 
eyes and lungs... without protective gloves and good venelation. 
By contrast, acrylic polymer is non-toxic and non-caustic. 

The bonding agent should be absorbed for through-and-through
bonding with the fiber of the the patch material (as acrylic
polymer does)... rather than just coating the surface as most
"glue" type agents (such as epoxy) tend to do. Of course you
might be thinking: Why not just do away with the "patch" and coat
the bullet itself. Yes, You can achieve a "coatings" for cast
bullets with a variety of (bonding type) materials. I won't try
to list them here; suffice to say that there are quite a few
possibilities. You can dunk, brush, or roll bullets to "coat"
them. I've tried several different techniques and subsequently
abandoned them all... except "PPL" (Paper-Polymer lamination).
You're welcome to try whatever you can think of. I did.

Before you "poo-poo" the concept of lamination, I'll offer a few
more points for you to consider: Rolling soggy strips of paper
around a tiny little chunk of lead might seem maddeningly tedious
when you first think about it... or try it. But you'll probably
be surprised at how easy it really is, after a little practice.
In fact, it's many, many times easier, and less tedious, and far
more precise than coating bullets (without patch material) unless
you have exotic and expensive equipment to maintain uniformity
and thickness of  finished coatings.

Also consider this: A variation of the limination process can
produce a vast array of very tough little "tubes" of any length
or diameter... which can be solidly sealed the back end, filled
loose lead pellets, then very thinly sealed at the front end...
so that it ruptures on impact... dumping the shot load. 

Ever hear of "Glazer Safty Slugs" slugs... and what they cost?

Ever hear of "frangible" shotgun slugs?....  Now you have.

Stay tuned for comming atractions. 

**************************************************
From:	Noylj

I think your idea is great, but too much trouble for me. Should be REALLY
good for those who are already into paper patched bullets.1

From a certfied (and certif iable) chemist: Paper patching with an acrylic
coating is not chemically hazardous (make sure coating is dry before
reloading). Sizing, pressure, etc. is problematic since you are on your own.
Be sure you clean your barrel thoroughly.
**************************************************
From:  Noylj

I would hate to shot a revolver or autopistol at velocities high enough to
lead my barrel (with proper alloys). Granted, I have never taken any handgun
bullet over 1550 fps, except in my TC, but leading has never been a problem
with proper bullet diameter and alloy (though at high velocities, I do clean
my barrel every 100-200 rounds since there is SOME leading. Have found
Linotype with 3% tin excellent for magnums.
**************************************************
From:  PolyJack

To Noylj:  RE: PPL (paper-polymer lamination) 

<< I would hate to shot a revolver or autopistol at velocities
high enough to lead my barrel (with proper alloys). Granted, I
have never taken any handgun bullet over 1550 fps, except in my
TC, but leading has never been a problem with proper bullet
diameter and alloy (though at high velocities, I do clean my
barrel every 100-200 rounds since there is SOME leading. Have
found Linotype with 3% tin excellent for magnums.>>

Well, I guess YOU (or anyone considering PPL loads) should begin
by adjusting to "new technology" with performance standards that
don't translate (directly) from previous standards. Acquired
experience of course is invaluably... unfortunately it does tend
to lead one to compare "apples with oranges"... which sometimes  
serves as a detriment to "progress". 

If you really like rock-hard bullets, fine. If you raelly like
fretting over tin content for optimum alloy, fine. If you really
like punching holes in steel targets, fine. If you really like
goop that bullet grease leaves around the flash gap cylinder
crane of a revolver, fine. If you really like heavy reoil (when)
you could have less), fine. If you really like scrubbing lead (or
copper) from your bore, fine. If 1550 fps is all the velocity you
want from a non-T/C handgun, fine.  "To each his own" I guess.

I won't urge you to do something that's "too much trouble"...
rolling up and loading a whole test batch of PPL's. If you are
the least bit curious... here a "quickie" you might try. Roll up
2 or 3 sample bullets for one of your T/C bbls. They don't have to
be neat, precise (shootable) samples. Chances are you have at least
a small amount of acrylic latex  paint around... if not, then use
Elmers glue. (But, with Elmer's let air-dry... don't apply heat).
Laminate bullets to slightly over bore-size (say .360 for a .357
bbl.). After fully dry, apply surface lube (silicone or teflon
spray... or even bullet lube... very lightly with your fingers).
Let it completely fully.   

Now "slug" your T/C bore with your PPL samples (As an experienced
reloader, I assume you know the procedure).  You will note that
your samples are longer than "hard" bullets of comparable weight
(so you have greater bore contact area... which should produce
greater bore resistance... Right?). You may have to tap it a
little to engage the rifling... but from ther on you won't have
to "drive" it as you would with hard lead. If your bore is clean,
just firm, steady "push"... is all you'll need.

If you really don't want the reduced recoil of lower bullet
weight; plus the accuracy benefit of greater bore-contact area;
plus the velocity benefit of lower bore resistance; plus the
balistic benefit greater sectional density, plus the terminal
performance of a relative "soft" bullet... Well then I guess we
just have different goals and standards.
 
**************************************************
This concludes this "reader's digest" file from
the GUN TALK/RELOADER message board.
**************************************************

In summation, I have a couple of little personal rules:

  (1)  I don't impose the benefits of my ideas
       upon anyone who doesn't want them.

  (2)  I don't deny the benefits of my ideas
       to anyone who really wants them. 

**************************************************
  
Dean King                    Email address:  PolyJack @aol.com
907 Canyon Drive
Midland, Texas  79703             

 
