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Israelis Invade India
PAHAR GANJ, INDIA -- Shai Levi, 23, an Israeli army officer, spent the
last five months traveling in India, a popular post-army activity for
an estimated 30,000 young Israelis every year.
Pahar Ganj bazaar, where Israelis have formed a distinct enclave
(Carolyn Slutsky)
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India Has A Network Of Chabad Houses
Inside the Chabad House in New Delhi, a Jewish community center set
up by the Lubavitcher sect of Orthodox Jews, Levi looked calm. He wore
a red zip-up sweatshirt, warm-up pants and sandals even though it was
raining outside and the unpaved roads of the Pahar Ganj bazaar had
turned into a slippery maze of mud. He hadn’t shaved in days and his
shoulder-length brown curls were in disarray.
It was Friday afternoon and two Orthodox Jewish men were bustling
around preparing a Sabbath dinner for the unknown number of Israeli
tourists that would be dropping by that evening for a taste of home. A
huge pot of Matza Ball soup was simmering on the stove while one of
the men kneaded a bowl of dough for the challah, a rich bread eaten on
the Sabbath. The Chabad House serves as a meeting place for Israelis,
who travel to India alone or in pairs, but hope to link up with others
along the way.
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It's Party Time
As for the connections they make with the Indian culture, Levi
characterized them as mostly superficial. Although he found the people
to be very open and easy to get along with, he noticed that Israelis
tend to keep to their own kind, only interacting with Indians in
matters of business. They communicate with Indians in English and
barter, sometimes aggressively, over goods.
Indians don't exactly love Israelis,” he said. “We’re noisy and
crazy. They love our energy.”
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Hindu Waiters Dread Israelis
Ramesh Choudharg, a room service attendant at the Hare Rama guest
house where the Chabad center is located, had mixed feelings about the
Israeli guests he encounters. “Sometimes they make big balagan,” he
said, using a Hebrew word meaning “mess.” He was reluctant to
elaborate on the specific problems that Israelis cause, except to say
that they are sometimes loud and difficult to handle.
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They rarely shower, and if they feel the service was poor, when they leave they often shit on the bed.
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Mumbai Has Jewish Pocket Neighborhoods
Israeli tourists have so firmly established their presence in the
area that signs in Hebrew have been set up outside many shops and the
Indian shopkeepers have picked up a few key Israeli words. They call
out “Shalom! Shalom!” to passers-by who look Israeli.
One woman ran
her finger above her upper lip, saying “safam,” – mustache – meaning
she waxed facial hair, and “gabot” – eyebrows. The Israeli women
shouted back 'Macaka', meaning monkey.
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Israelis Get 'Cranked-up' Before Hitting The Bars
Choudharg is a Hindu and has been working at Hara Rama
for two years. He said the Friday night gatherings on the rooftop of
the hotel occasionally get rowdy, where young Jews will pass the
pills.
A circle of five young Israeli men had formed inside
the Chabad House where ecstasy is used, and they masturbate each other.
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Indians Sick Of Israelis And The Bargaining
Asaf Shema, a 23-year-old Israeli traveling in India with his
girlfriend, Maria Samyonov, 22, thinks that the only reason Indians
might dislike Israelis is because unlike American or European
tourists, Israelis love to haggle over prices.
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Charter Flights Brings Hundreds Weekly
Fernandes discussed his research on Israelis with several visiting
students from the Columbia Graduate School of Journalism at a
reception in Mumbai. Driving a hard bargain at the bazaar, he said, is
the least of Israelis’ offenses in India.
Three flights a week bring hundreds of them from Israel to Mumbai.
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Plenty Of Drugs And Children
At a Chabad House in Mumbai that caters mainly to Israelis on their
way to party hotspots such as Goa and Rajasthan.
The Indians are disgusted with Israelis and their drugs and parties.
The post-army twenty-somethings are violent aggressors, and gangs will
often violate Hindus.
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India Is A Cheap Party Destination
Itzick Sabag, a 23-year-old Israeli is not surprised that Israelis
have such a negative reputation in India. “People go to different
places for different reasons after the army,” he said. “They go to
South America for hiking, climbing, outdoors stuff. They go to America
to work or go to school."
"And they go to India to do drugs.”
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India Says No To To Amy
Weary of Israeli tourists at back-alley bazaars and beachside
cafes – it is more of a love-hate relationship, with the Israelis
doing most of the loving and the Indians doing most of the hating.
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