So why are we able to pick locks?  Let me explain:

    Let's face it, locks are not exactly a precision instrument.  In order for a lock to operate smoothly  there must be some play in the system. This play is achieved by the allowance for these columns to be slightly larger than the pins themselves.  If they weren't, the first piece of dirt, grit, etc. that entered these columns or the expansion and contraction of the malleable metals that comprise these parts, would hinder it's operation. Also, as the lock ages (repeated usage's)  friction may play a role in further expansion of these columns.

    Going back to figure 12 for a sec. If I got out my micrometer and measured each overlap I would notice that the distances away from the cylinder body would not be consistent. What I mean by this is:  If I drew a straight line across these columns, the point at which the cylinder holes make contact  with the line would not be exactly parallel. This is due to the inherent play between the cylinder and the cylinder body. In order for the cylinder to spin there must be an allowance for movement. When a key ( or something simulating a key ) is inserted and turned there will be side pressure on the cylinder causing it to skew and create this situation.

     This play I mentioned varies from lock to lock. The more expensive the lock, the more likely it was designed with superior materials and more advanced machining processes. With this, tolerance levels will be decreased and the lock will be more difficult to pick. There are also other methods that manufacturers employ that can make picking a lock not only more difficult but also frustrating.

moving on..

    Above (figure 13)  is a picture of a key pin and a set pin. These are actually butted up tight to each other. Notice how where they make contact they are rounded and not flat.

    Considering what we have examined so far, we can deduce that as long as there is pressure on the key, the cylinder holes will overlap the cylinder body creating a ledge. Even if the pins were flat, they would most likely get stuck on this ledge and the fact that they are tapered (more surface area for contact) just reinforces there tendency to get stuck. Now, considering the inconsistency of this ledge, every time a pin is lodged past the shear line ( see figure 4.) the cylinder will move slightly. If the pressure on the cylinder is maintained and another pin is depressed it too will get caught on this ledge, and so on.

    So if we can insert something into the key way and apply pressure (a torque wrench) and use another utensil (a pick) to push on those pins until they become trapped,  the cylinder will be free and the lock will open.   : )
 
 

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    Although some locks can be picked with a couple of paper clips, if you wish to tackle more difficult locking mechanisms you will require a decent set of lock picks. A modest set of picks will set you back around $30 and can be easily found online. Later I will explain some methods of devising your own instruments for picking locks.

    Your basic set should consist of the following

Hook pick: This is a great all around pick. It is most useful for pin-at-a-time picking. It can also be used for scrubbing. The main advantage of this pick for scrubbing is that you can usually reach over the second last pin if it is set high while the last pin is set low. It also provides you with a little more control on individual pins.

Diamond pick: As you become a little better at lock picking this is the pick of choice for scrubbing. They are available in many different sizes but you will probably find the smaller more tapered edge type is the most versatile. The brass handle that you see is typical. The pick is held in place with a couple of hex head set screws.  These can be loosened so that the handle may except other picks.

Snake pick: Again, designed specifically for scrubbing. The main advantage of this pick is the likelihood of the pick setting more than one pin at once. On an easy lock you can sometimes open it with one sweep.

Torque wrench: The torque wrench is simply used to apply pressure on the cylinder. They come in various sizes and it is a good idea to have some smaller ones (in width) on hand. When working on some of the more advanced locks a feather torque wrench (relies on springs) can really come in handy.

    There are many other types of picks available on the market. However with this basic set and some skill you should be able to pick most of the pin tumbler locks you will encounter.

Note: There are some lock designs that can not be compromised with conventional lock picks, such as tubular locks and warded pad locks. There are picks designed specifically for these types.
 
 

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      Before I go any further I would like to take a minute to say a couple of words to the beginners / skeptics out there. Lock picking is NOT achieved because of the tools. You don't just pick up a set of lock picks and stupefy your friends by being able to open all sorts of things. To be a master at lock picking you must be a master of your senses. It is a skill that  takes practice and diligence. Think of the picks as a physical extension of your mind. They are merely present to assist you in identifying certain qualities within a lock. Once identified and interpreted correctly, these qualities may be used to circumvent the mechanisms of the lock.

    The first thing you should do If you are interested in becoming proficient at lock picking is to find some locks that you can play with. Any lock will do really  but I do not recommend beginning with brands like Medeco(tm) and Schlage(tm) (explained later) and preferably not the dead bolt on your neighbors front door. Unless of course they are away on vacation and you need to feed their cat etc.

    You may have some locks laying around your house. If not, go to the hardware store and buy the cheapest  padlock you can find. Try and find one that is a decent size so that it will be more comfortable in your hand while you are still a little "wet behind the ears" lock picker.

    I have chosen to begin with padlocks strictly because they are a little easier to practice on while you build up your dexterity with the tools.

    Lock picks although tools are not the same as say a hammer or screwdriver. They are precision tools comprised of very soft materials. Consider this as you are practicing. If you are bending your tools, then you are definitely doing something wrong. Force is not your ally.

    To begin place the lock in your hand.  The easiest and most comfortable way of holding a padlock is with your middle finger through the bolt with the pins facing your body. Insert the torque wrench applying only enough pressure to keep the wrench inserted in the key way.

    Next insert your pick. For this exercise we will use the hook shaped pick. We will begin by trying to set each pin individually. Although this process is usually reserved for more difficult locks  it clearly demonstrates how to recognize setting pins.

How much torque?

    Typically, to open a lock you require only enough torque to spin the cylinder, which once freed from the pins is very little. The torque required to trap the pins in their respective columns varies, and is influenced  mainly by environmental conditions and the quality of the lock. The biggest mistake beginners make is applying far too much torque thus bottoming out the pins or jamming them altogether. Be gentle and reap the rewards. The easiest way to judge the proper torque for your lock is to insert your pick, beginning with the diamond, and gently sweep the pins from back to front waiting for a pin to set. The lowest amount of torque that it took to set that pin is usually the amount of torque required to pick the lock.

     While applying torque on the cylinder gently push down on the first pin. When a pin sets it will make an audible "click" which will also be transferred to the pick itself and felt. If nothing happens maintain your torque and depress another pin. When you reach a pin that sets search for another.  If you have depressed all of the pins yet none will set  increase your torque and start over.

    While you were performing the above you probably noticed that as pins began to set that the cylinder also slightly rotated. This is a very important feature that locks display as the shear line is cleared of the pins. There are times when you are picking that you are unaware of pins setting, this feature helps to assist you in determining the progress of picking at hand.

    There is no _real_ order as to how the pins will set or how much the cylinder will turn as pins are set. It all depends on the the type of lock and the manufacturer. If at some point you feel as though all of the pins are set yet the lock will not open, you have probably lodged a pin too far past the shear line so you must begin again.  If you get frustrated, take a break.

    How many pins?

    It all depends. To check insert your torque wrench, pick etc. until it hits the back wall of the lock. Depress it onto the pins and slowly drag it out of the lock. Listen carefully as the pins pop back into place counting as you go. Most padlocks have 4 pins, some have 5 (typically brass). Dead bolts have anywhere from 5 to 8. It all depends on the manufacturer. So check before you pick. While on this subject I would just like to mention that the amount of pins rarely has anything to do with the security of a lock.

    Which way to turn?

    On our test subject it doesn't matter as we can see ( figure 16 ). The cylinder when in place can pull the lever either left or right. Not all locks are the same, especially when it comes to dead bolts. Before you do anything with a lock you must determine which way to turn the cylinder.

    To determine the turn of a lock insert your torque wrench in the cylinder and apply moderate pressure both ways.  The direction that offers the least resistance i.e.. not an instant _dead_ stop, will be the turn of the lock. Another simple test that you can employ is to insert your torque wrench and apply ample force on the cylinder both ways. As you do each  brush your pick across the pins and note whether they set. On most locks all of the pins should set only on the correct turn.

    Once you do succeed in picking your first lock, begin timing yourself on that lock. When you can pick a familiar lock, pin-at-a-time,  in less than 10 seconds it's time to move on.

    What about dead bolts?

    Most people find  it a little awkward at first working on dead bolts.  This is usually due to the fact that they are accompanied by a large door and fastened to it quite well. You cannot manipulate the lock to improve your positioning so you must rely on your dexterity with your tools 100%.

    The techniques that you used on the  padlock are exactly the same as you will apply to dead bolts. You will however require a little more skill in identifying set pins as dead bolts tend not to give as easy as padlocks.

Note: I just noticed that from what I have said so far I am creating the impression that dead bolts are much more difficult  than padlocks. This is not necessarily true. There are some very decent padlocks out there that are very difficult to pick.  The likelihood of encountering one however is rare.  I  will maintain my current distinctions between the two for the rest of this paper but keep in mind for the sake of accuracy,  that it all depends on the make of the lock.
 

    When you are comfortable with pin-at-a-time picking you should learn these two other common methods for pin manipulation.

Scrubbing

    Insert you pick and torque wrench into the key way and begin raking the the pins gently back and forth. The idea here is to gradually yet synchronously increase the force applied by both the pick and the torque wrench until the lock opens.

    I cannot stress enough that you MUST be gentle with both your pick and your wrench during this exercise. To be successful you must let the lock do all of the work. All you are trying to do is kindly coerce it into doing what it was designed to do. Feel what is happening inside, listen. The lock will tell you exactly what is happening as long as listen and feel. <- starting to sound like an excerpt from the Karate Kid.

    After a few sweeps if the lock has failed to open try pushing on each pin individually. If the lock is a little stiff or you are over tourqing the lock a pin may require a little extra push to clear the shear line. Be gentle, ease off your torque, try again.

Bouncing

    Slowly insert your pick into the key way,  gently rocking it up and down as you go. You should have minimal torque on the cylinder while performing this exercise. Basically what you are trying to do is achieve as much contact at different levels with the pins as your pick passes over them. Maintaining consistent torque on the cylinder is vital for this process to work. If executed correctly the lock should open up pretty quick.

    All of the methods that I have mentioned hitherto are typically combined to rapidly open a lock. Only the person operating the pick will know which is best and at what time to employ them.

    The most difficult thing about lock picking is just this. Choosing your plan of attack. You must approach each new lock as a challenge and never allow yourself to become a victim of the memory effect. Beginners  especially,  may be inclined to become accustomed to a particular lock. Now, they can pick this lock in about 2 seconds, knowing exactly the order and just how much tension and pressure it will take for the pins to pop. So, with this lock they have acquired something, the sequence of operations for brand "X", a template if you will. From this point on, this template will be used for all locks to follow.

    As you can guess from what we have learned so far, this will not get them very far. With each new lock, there is a new challenge. When you first insert your pick into a lock, never begin with the assumption that it is going to open. Assume that you are going to learn something from it, nothing more. And if it happens to open, then great. If not try to gather a little more information about it and try again.