I have decided to purchase a compound bow next year, and I wanted to know of any new talk of technology for bows that is coming out?

Anything useful is greatly appreciated.

Groundhog Wakka was starting to do some bow hunting IIRC, he might be able to help you out but i haven't seen him on for a while.

Compound bows are gay for the same reason my katana is gay. Firearms are better.

Compound bows are gay for the same reason my katana is gay. Firearms are better.

Dju'wan'ax'? :p

Compound (cross)bows are legitimate (hunting) weapons, whereas katanas are trinkets for weeaboos to wank over.

Heck, even a decent wristrocket with strong bands and musket shot as ammo is a more practical weapon than a katana.

Why don't you put dynamite on the arrows and take out the whole herd?

Thanks for remembering me Savage. ;) I have been trying to get out in the woods as much as possible so haven't spent much time on here. Plus there has been an assload of noob threads that I don't bother reading.
To OP. All I can say is do your homework and spend as much as you can afford on the bow but don't forget to figure in about $120 for arrows if you want carbon(yes you want carbon arrows) and at least $50 for a release(most run more though). Thats the basics, I have since spent money on a ton of other stuff to get ready for the hunting season.
Try to think ahead a bit and spend a little extra for the things now that you might upgrade in the near future. I bought a Reflex Growler kit http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b50/Groundhogwhacka/P8040335.jpg with a whisker biscuit rest and TruGlo sight. I have already upgraded to a QAD fallaway rest and the sight will be upgraded after this season(the smallish guard is tough to get a good sight picture through in low light). I also think I have a bit of an issue with string stretch so thats on the list for after season upgrades too. As for new technology, I don't know that there is a whole lot of "new" technology on the horizon. Everyone makes new models every year but they rarely make huge technological advances. The only other advice I have is don't buy in to the 320 plus FPS craze, its not necessary. If you are planning on hunting moose or some other heavy duty animal you may want to think about it but it presents a slew of new challenges. Mine is rated at like 308fps or something but I am shooting it at 260fps. I have good upper body strength but drawing and holding at full draw without a bunch of sight waiver was nearly impossible. I turned the draw down a bit and it is managable now, I can still turn it up as I get some more trigger time and get used to it but 260fps is plenty of speed to get a passthrough on a whitetail even if I hit the shoulder.

I don't have any suggestions as to what brand to buy though. Most bows are real good quality and have a lifetime warranty so the real choice is how much you want to spend and what your preferences are. Hit me up here if you have any other question. I will help you to the best of my ability.

I have decided to purchase a compound bow next year, and I wanted to know of any new talk of technology for bows that is coming out?

Anything useful is greatly appreciated.

The first thing I'm going to recommend is reading this articl to get an understanding of how compound bows work:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compound_bow

As for new technology relating to compound bows, there isn't really anything new besides cams that allow more "let-off". While I'm on let-off let me explain what it is. Let-off is the total decrease in draw weight of the bow once it is fully drawn. IF I recall correctly my bow has a let of of something like 60-75%. I can't remember. This means when I have the draw weight set to 75 lbs, when it is fully drawn I am only holding back 25 pounds.

Anyways, Let me just hit a few random things:

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/003-1.jpg

That is my bow. It is a martin archery Jaguar. It has a draw weight of 75 pounds. You can compare mine to Groundhog whacka's bow and note a few key differences.

His bow has a stabilizer

His bow has limb silencers

I do not prefer those things as they only add to cost of the bow and weight in my opinion. Some people feel more confident with more accessories on their bow and confidence is key when using a bow.

The Silencers are sort of obvious, all they do is silence the bow and keep things from vibrating.

The Stabilizer is used to keep the bow from rising when you draw it back. They come in different sizes and lengths so if you decide to try one make sure to get the right length and size.

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/007.jpg

The next thing I want to discuss is broadheads. These are a very important part of your hunting setup. Some people prefer fixed over mechanical. I prefer both. I use grim reaper broadheads. They can be shot from the expandable position (see above) and expand on impact of the target (see below). You can also lock them open and shoot them like fixed blades.

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/008.jpg

While We are looking at Groundhoug whacka's bow compared to mine, you can note a few similarities.

The first would be the whisker biscuit arrow rest and the second would be the true glow sight.

The whisker biscuit arrow rest is the best that money can buy. It prevents your arrow from making noise or falling out of the rest.

However, if you are going to use a whisker biscuit, make sure you purchase arrows with this type of vane:

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/vain.jpg

If you don't the vanes on your other arrows will become damaged and cause the arrow to not fly straight.

When you do purchase your bow, they will take measurements of you and set the the bow up as well as figure out what size arrows you should use.

Just keep in mind bows are all about how YOU want it set up. Just because I like something doesn't mean you will.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Thank you Leper and Groundhog, although I am not new to archery hunting, these posts we very helpful.

Lepar you have never had a problem with the mechanical broadheads opening up on impact?

Groundhog what release would you recommend i haven't really looked around for one yet.

Thanks to both of you for all the help. and everyone else.

Thank you Leper and Groundhog, although I am not new to archery hunting, these posts we very helpful.

Lepar you have never had a problem with the mechanical broadheads opening up on impact?

Groundhog what release would you recommend i haven't really looked around for one yet.

Thanks to both of you for all the help. and everyone else.

I've never had a problem with Mechanical broadheads.

Some people say they have seen them open mid flight, but out of the thousands of shots I use with my practice set, I have never had it happen.

A word of caution if you get cheap mechanical Broadheads;

They can deflect if shot towards an animal from a nose bleed stand (A stand that is ver very high). The angle has to be very, very, sharp, but I have seen it happen.

Are you positive you want a release? I just use my fingers, but many people don't like that.

Use this for hunting instead:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/57/AK-47_type_II_Part_DM-ST-89-01131.jpg

Much more effective then lame bow.

Man groundhogwhacka you have me looking at bows now. I don't want to spend 5 bills but i am willing to spend like 300. I was thinking about going traditional and getting a long bow. Then i saw the recurves. Can someone give me the genral pros and cons of each,long bow, recurves, and coumpounds? I can almost build a cheap ar15 for 500.

Use this for hunting instead:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/57/AK-47_type_II_Part_DM-ST-89-01131.jpg

Much more effective then lame bow.

Am i reading this right? Mr Karate Kid, god of all things HONORABLE is suggesting someone use a gun ( a GUN!?!?) to murder innocent animals. Where is the honor in that? Where is your opinion about battling it to the death with your bear hands?

Have you recently been kicked in the head or something? I suggest you go back for more because it seems to be removing some of your retardation.

http://newmedia.funnyjunk.com/pictures/with-my-bear-hands.jpg

You'll probably find typos and spelling mistakes in all my posts. Never was a subject i was good at.

what about left and right handed bows is there any way to get 1 bow that does both ways?

Am i reading this right? Mr Karate Kid, god of all things HONORABLE is suggesting someone use a gun ( a GUN!?!?) to murder innocent animals. Where is the honor in that? Where is your opinion about battling it to the death with your bear hands?

Have you recently been kicked in the head or something? I suggest you go back for more because it seems to be removing some of your retardation.

I'm just returning the favour.

Man groundhogwhacka you have me looking at bows now. I don't want to spend 5 bills but i am willing to spend like 300. I was thinking about going traditional and getting a long bow. Then i saw the recurves. Can someone give me the genral pros and cons of each,long bow, recurves, and coumpounds? I can almost build a cheap ar15 for 500.

I will hit the main points of each bow quickily:

Compound Bows

When fully drawn you don't have to hold the whole draw weight back.
Are generally more compact
You can have much better sights on it
Generally more expensive
Can be adjusted to exactly what you need.
Easier to learn archery on.


Recurve Bows

They store more energy that a straight limbed bow.
You can have the same accessories as a compound bow, but expect to shell out much more.
You can not draw and hold a recurve back and still maintain accuracy. It has to be one fluid motion.
You can shoot wooden arros with some models.
Less to go wrong (no cams and pullys to worry about)
Might the string might bite your arm if you aren't watching yourself.


Long Bow


Everything that the recurve has minus increased energy.
Huge, usually as tall as the shooter
Tough tomanuever with
No sights
No accessorys what so ever.
Extremely difficult for beginers to use effectively



If you have any questions about them, feel free to ask. It's nice to see we might be getting some more archers around here.

what about left and right handed bows is there any way to get 1 bow that does both ways?

To my knowledge, no. I'm ambedexterous and I wish I could find a bow that would could be used with either hand.

Do animals shot with bows run farther than those shot with guns?

Yup. Arrows a kinda like really slow moving FMJ's, they rely on slipping right through because exit wounds bleed more making it easier to track and they bleed out faster. Where as bullets are made to dump most or all of their energy in the target which gives you that hand-grenade-in-the-chest-cavity look :D .

Yup. Arrows a kinda like really slow moving FMJ's, they rely on slipping right through because exit wounds bleed more making it easier to track and they bleed out faster. Where as bullets are made to dump most or all of their energy in the target which gives you that hand-grenade-in-the-chest-cavity look :D .

THUS:

AK47 ftw

Actually 7.62X39mm is probably too weak for hunting, being as its designed to wound 170 pound men, not fell 300+ pound deer.

So....

No, lawlz.

Do animals shot with bows run farther than those shot with guns?

Depends where you shoot them :)

I've seen deer run 40 yards with a damn near perfect shot and 15 yards gutshot.

I'd like to voice my experience with Parker bows have been good; they're cheap(er) and shoot good. I got mine with Truglo sights, 1/2 doz arrows, field points and a release for $400 out the door. I would suggest getting a whisker biscuit if you're hunting, I've had several fall off the regular rests but never dropped one with a whisker.

Magnetic releases are nice, they're crisp and light. Just make sure the draw weight isn't over the max specified.

Actually 7.62X39mm is probably too weak for hunting, being as its designed to wound 170 pound men, not fell 300+ pound deer.

So....

No, lawlz.

AK47 go through thick trees and leave big holes in them. I don't think the flesh and bones of deer/bear/bunny would prove a problem.

AK47 go through thick trees and leave big holes in them. I don't think the flesh and bones of deer/bear/bunny would prove a problem.

Bones are very different from wood. And if an ak47 was propelled through a tree it would probably make a big hole but a 7.62x39 is not goin to make a huge hole.

Bones are very different from wood. And if an ak47 was propelled through a tree it would probably make a big hole but a 7.62x39 is not goin to make a huge hole.

oh and they fly at 700 rpm so.

Bones are very different from wood. And if an ak47 was propelled through a tree it would probably make a big hole but a 7.62x39 is not goin to make a huge hole.

We all know you're really gecko45.

oh and they fly at 700 rpm so.

Do you ever shut the fuck up, douchebag?

Man, I spent like a week in a forest when I was a kid looking for the perfect piece of yew to make a bow from. It was really crude and took 3 of us to bend it so we could tie it, and we never learned to shoot effectively because we were too weak.

I wish I still had that bow, learning to shoot a bow is something everyone should know how to do.

At least I can make one, but I can never get the string to hold more than a few shots.

I'd suggest you don't start off with a modern high tech fancy bow. The amount of strength required to pull one of those is nothing compared to the bows you make yourself. If you're going hunting, you'll have far better luck using the high-tech bows of today if you practiced on a piece of shit.

It's like practicing on an RPD and then moving up the the M249.

As far as arrows go, I don't suggest making your own unless you know what you're doing. It's hard and I could never really do it. It takes a lot of skill to make a bow and arrows yourself, but it's useful to know.

The first thing I'm going to recommend is reading this articl to get an understanding of how compound bows work:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compound_bow

As for new technology relating to compound bows, there isn't really anything new besides cams that allow more "let-off". While I'm on let-off let me explain what it is. Let-off is the total decrease in draw weight of the bow once it is fully drawn. IF I recall correctly my bow has a let of of something like 60-75%. I can't remember. This means when I have the draw weight set to 75 lbs, when it is fully drawn I am only holding back 25 pounds.

Anyways, Let me just hit a few random things:

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/003-1.jpg

That is my bow. It is a martin archery Jaguar. It has a draw weight of 75 pounds. You can compare mine to Groundhog whacka's bow and note a few key differences.

His bow has a stabilizer

His bow has limb silencers

I do not prefer those things as they only add to cost of the bow and weight in my opinion. Some people feel more confident with more accessories on their bow and confidence is key when using a bow.

The Silencers are sort of obvious, all they do is silence the bow and keep things from vibrating.

The Stabilizer is used to keep the bow from rising when you draw it back. They come in different sizes and lengths so if you decide to try one make sure to get the right length and size.

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/007.jpg

The next thing I want to discuss is broadheads. These are a very important part of your hunting setup. Some people prefer fixed over mechanical. I prefer both. I use grim reaper broadheads. They can be shot from the expandable position (see above) and expand on impact of the target (see below). You can also lock them open and shoot them like fixed blades.

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/008.jpg

While We are looking at Groundhoug whacka's bow compared to mine, you can note a few similarities.

The first would be the whisker biscuit arrow rest and the second would be the true glow sight.

The whisker biscuit arrow rest is the best that money can buy. It prevents your arrow from making noise or falling out of the rest.

However, if you are going to use a whisker biscuit, make sure you purchase arrows with this type of vane:

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/The_Leper_Messiah_/vain.jpg

If you don't the vanes on your other arrows will become damaged and cause the arrow to not fly straight.

When you do purchase your bow, they will take measurements of you and set the the bow up as well as figure out what size arrows you should use.

Just keep in mind bows are all about how YOU want it set up. Just because I like something doesn't mean you will.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

My BIL has a Martin Jag too. He used it for years but is his back up bow now. Well actually its his main bow until he gets his new bow fixed. We were hunting last weekend and he drew on a button buck and when he pulled the trigger his bottom cam smacked the arm of his tree stand and the bow blew up. String came off, dinged the bottom cam, bent the stops on both cams, broke a carbon arrow, and broke his rest. Luckily enough we couldn't find any cracks in the limbs.

I ditched the Whisker Biscuit in favor of a QAD Ultra Rest, I like it much more than the Whisker Biscuit. Its a fallaway but you still get complete arrow containment. After the season I am going for a different sight too. Something with a larger sight ring and .019 pins. I had a deer in the sights at 30yds last weekend but it was getting dark and I just couldn't see well enough through that little sight ring to be confident it was a kill shot so I gave him a free pass.

Just a side note a friend of my BIL stuck a doe with a Razor 3 bladed expandable and got very shallow penetration. He never recovered the deer. I don't know specifics on the shot distance , angle, etc, etc. But just another of those stories that shied me away from expandables. Plus the Muzzy MX4's I tried shot right where my field points did so thats what I shoot.

Bones are very different from wood. And if an ak47 was propelled through a tree it would probably make a big hole but a 7.62x39 is not goin to make a huge hole.

It usually punches clean through, leaving a hole channel aproximately 10mm to 12.5 mm thick, depending on the wood hardness and texture (the more solid the wood, the smaller and more consistent the hole tends to be).

7.62x39 mm , however, excells at short range armor penetration, as it tends to shed its jacket upon impact, allowing the steel core penetrator to punch clean through. However, it has been found that a layered armor arrangement consisting of 1/4" thick steel plate, backed by 1/2" ballistic nylon-fiberglass fiber plate, followed by another 1/4" thick steel plate similar to the first, with a 2" wood backing will effectively stop most, if not all, AP ammunition of .30 caliber, with the exception of the .30-06 cartridge.

This type of composite armor, while necessarily heavy, was found to be lighter than most typical steel plate only armor and unsophisticated to produce.

On the other hand, for ease of manufacture the 1/2" ballistic nylon-fiberglass fiber plate can be replaced with 1" solid hardwood panelling, cedar wood or avocado tree wood being two of my personal favourites.

Coating the rear wood panel with generous amounts of tar will help dramatically reduce the shattering effect, which could be risky to the interior occupants of the structure as a potential source of shrapnel.

Experiments with compressed ceramic dust/mesh composites will be carried and reported upon at a later date.

Class dismissed,
LavaRed

Well I went to bass pro today and dropped 500$ on a new bow package. I went with the pse stinger bow package which was $399, then i bought a 6 pack of carbon arrows(24.95),practice field tips(5.99), and a release(27.99) that totaled $494.00. i have never really shot a bow before except the cheapo ones in PE class. But the guy working was very helpful and got my bow all set up for me and taught me proper technique, and he even let me practice in their range for about an hour.

i am very happy with the bow and it is a blast to shoot.
I can update with pics later on this week if anyone wants to see.