Yep. You read it right. The final, revised, miniturized and lightweight version of the renown S01E MP40 suppressor right in the comfort of your computer screen.
Introducing the all new Sigma MK.2 Sound Filter, indeed, the next generation in pistol suppressors. With all steel construction, chromed and anti-rust coated internals, a total length of 8", an outside diameter of 1.5", a net weight of just under 12 ounces, and a first round pop sound level of just 121dB fired from a 4" Luger barrel, with standard supersonic 115 gr FMJ Barnaul steel core ammunition, there is no way you can say no to this hearing protection device.
Enjoy:cool:.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01657.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01658.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01659.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01660.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01661.jpg

And for dessert, a fair trial comparison between the MP40 with the old S01E can, and the Luger P08 with the new Sigma Mk.2 sound filter. Ammunition used was Barnaul 115gr FMJ steel core. Two rounds from the MP40, one from the Luger.

http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/?action=view&current=MOV01663.flv

Funcionó!

I love your label. Very professional. So, what's the MSRP on these things?

Might I refer you to this site? (http://www.silencertalk.com/)

Awesome btw. Maybe you can get advise to further improve your designs. Try to mask any illegality though, as they won't discuss illegal matters. They at least have a bunch of cool videos though.

Thanks for the site.
As for now, I'm thinking of moving on to exotic materials next. My next benchmark will be to get it under 100 dB, although that's almost unrealistic. I think to have beat the MP5SD's benchmark by over 10 dB (the official tests for it record 126 dB, while my MP40 can records 114 dB) is quite an achievement for me; granted, their can resists thousands of rounds, while mine will burn after a few hundred. But I don't need a few hundred rounds for plinking :).

Anyways, building cost for each of the small ones ran me Q700, which is about $95. So if I ever were to sell them, I'd shoot for $200. Sounds reasonable. Oh, and I dropped one by accident before the video, and it still works ok, so we know they're durable.
The S01E ran me around Q 1000 including modifications (~$130), and the original PVC 3" OD unit cost ~$50, so you could say total R&D costs amount to ~$370. Still cheaper than the cheaper commercial makes, which btw don't achieve my sound rating. And I would expect these MK.2's to last for at least a thousand rounds, since they have chromed steel internals. Quality could be improved in mass production, but for prototypes they seem to do well.

Are you able to get subsonic 9mm? I'd like to hear how they compare to the 115 grainers.

Are suppressors legal in Guatemala?

Nice work. Sadly my projects are on hold til april next year as I am leaving the country for a while for work. When I get back I get my lathe and I'm putting a deposit on a house or workshop, depending on what I can find at the time.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k202/3pushesbullet/pizza-delivery.jpg

And this is why we consistently nominate Lava for the coveted W&C badass award...

http://www.win-magazine.com/Static%20Images/subscribe_WIN.jpg
Ask Lava!:D

Well guys, I'm honoured. But, you must bear in mind that none of this would have materialized without your help, advice and support.

Stinger, sadly they are not legal, which sort of hampers progress on it as it must be done prudently. I have yet to find 147 gr ammunition, but I know for certain that ammo reloaded with lead bullets is ~ 158 gr and so should trave subsonically. It would be the cheap alternative.

I've noticed a sever ammount of pitting in the barrels of the guns after the tests tho. Could it be cavitation from pressure upheavals or is it normal rust caused by excess powder buildup?
Thanks,
Lava

Nice work. Sadly my projects are on hold til april next year as I am leaving the country for a while for work. When I get back I get my lathe and I'm putting a deposit on a house or workshop, depending on what I can find at the time.

You should definitely try out some of these designs. I'll license them to you if you want to go into mass production.

Off topic: LavaRed, do you use any sort of instant messenger or email?

Where did you get it chromed? How much did it cost, and how long did it take?

Are the parts welded together? Did you do the welding?

Lava,
if you have a schematic for these things I'd love a copy, I believe you have me on MSN th..ol..me..@hot... , I'll do some tweaking etc when I get back, and we'll see what we can do. Suppressors are illigal here too but I'm working to get that amended here in my state at least.

Off topic: LavaRed, do you use any sort of instant messenger or email?

Indeed I do. Send me an email with yours through the on-site mail feature (it works) and I'll add you.

Unfortunately I did not do the welding. Thatw as done at a shop that specializes in car mufflers. The body, endcaps, and all threads were made at a machining/mechanic shop, and the chroming was done at a shop that does chrome and copper baths on struff.

Nice work, very professional looking. Nice and quite too.

Keep it up man.

Nice work, very professional looking. Nice and quite too.

Keep it up man.

Thanks, I most certainly will.
Next stop will be ceramic baffles.

Hi Lavared
I've been watching your suppressor threads develop and they seem to work very well. Iam really interested in your muzzle attachment for the luger, dont suppose you have a spare you are looking to sell or perhaps you would be willing to post a sketch giving the dimensions etc.
Anyway keep up the good work, never made one myself but have loads of books on the subject so if you need any info willing to help.

Hi Lavared
I've been watching your suppressor threads develop and they seem to work very well. Iam really interested in your muzzle attachment for the luger, dont suppose you have a spare you are looking to sell or perhaps you would be willing to post a sketch giving the dimensions etc.
Anyway keep up the good work, never made one myself but have loads of books on the subject so if you need any info willing to help.

I never thought of building a spare, but I'll be more than happy to give you the dimensions.
Note that individual Lugers barrels tend to vary in external diameter by up to 0.5 mm, so you'll have to tailor yours to your patricular dimensions. Too tight a fit and it will scratch the finish, too loose and you will get a misalignment. 0.5mm en enough to cause severe misalignment (around 3 deg.) at the muzzle of the 8" sound filter tube.
The particular Luger I used has a 14.5mm OD barrel at the muzzle, my other Luger has 15mm, so you can see at a glance they will not be interchangeable.

Ok, so you have in mind the general shape of the attachment. The OD of the thick part is 20mm, the ID is 14.5mm (subject to your personal Luger). 28 threads per inch pitch.
The outer length of the thick section is 50mm, the inner part is 49mm. This is very, very important, because this leaves an inner shoulder of about 1mm thickness, which will bear the initial force of the muzzle blast. You should build a gasket (gasket maker) around it to insure a gas tight fit. A lesser thickness can produce structural failure.

The thin, muzzle part where you attach the filter is 15mm OD, with a 28 threads per inch pitch, and 10mm ID. 10mm long too.

The nut that holds the piece against the front sight is 25mm OD. It has to have a slight cut so that you can move the sight through it, but should not, repeat, should not be cut through, or the nut will open up and loosen unse the recoil forces. This means that the cut should leave a 1mm strip on top of it to hold the nut closed. Also, a small section of the nut face must be sloped at an angle matching that of your Luger front sight (again, varies), so that it locks across a greater suface area.

I recommend putting some masking tape where the piece contacts the barrel, to avoid scratching the finish. Once your muzzle attachment is adjusted, you should seal the locking nut in place with Lock-Tite cement, or a similar locking epoxy.

Any other questions feel free to ask.
LavaRed

P.S.: Please post pics when you're done. It will be a great pleasure for me.

Hi LavaRed
Wow that was quick and an excellent description makes total sense as to what is required.
One thing I notice from the description is locking nut is not cut all the way through, however the pics of the adaptor on the luger suppressor thread shows the nuts cut, in fact similar to an adaptor for a 22 ruger i saw when searching for info. did this cause you problems.

Hi LavaRed
Wow that was quick and an excellent description makes total sense as to what is required.
One thing I notice from the description is locking nut is not cut all the way through, however the pics of the adaptor on the luger suppressor thread shows the nuts cut, in fact similar to an adaptor for a 22 ruger i saw when searching for info. did this cause you problems.

The concept (and name) of muzzle adaptor coupling was taken from Ruger's Mk. II pistol muzzle adaptor coupling. However, my own unit faces and solves a host of different problems than that of Ruger's unit.

First and foremost is the increased recoil and muzzle blast of the 9mm Parabellum catridge, which combined with the recoiling barrel on the Luger, dramatically increases the forces that the locking nut must bear.

Additionally, Ruger's Mk. II pistol features a straight vertical rear face on the front sight blade, while the Luger features an angled rear face on the front side blade. When forced against it by inertia during the firing cycle, the locking nut tends to crack open.
This is remedied in three ways, namely:

A. Avoiding a cut through nut and replacing the twin cut through nuts with a single thick round solid nut (to increase the section area of the nut thus avoiding the weak corners of a hex nut and making it more structurally sound and to avound the primary nut being squeezed vertically between the other locking nut and the sight blade)

B. Bevelling a strip at the angle of the Luger's front sight blade on the locking nut, thus increasing gripping surface.

C. Not treating the locking nut with an external hardening process. This was done so that the forward forces of recoil gradually embed the nut into the harder front sight, producing a locking spot perfectly tailored to the gun on the locking nut.

All the procedures above were devised by me and developed through painful and expensive trial and error.

I add that the threads on the nut and the adapter must be particularly coarse and steep, or else they will be worn away easily as these also bear the full brunt of recoil.

If you see the pictures on this thread, plus the video, you will notice the final model single locking nut.

Hi
Iam impressed you seem to have worked through just about every problem that could arise, must have been a long painful process.
Sorry for all the questions but I was wondering if you intend to put a suppressor on the uzi. If you are stuck for a way to mount I may be able to help.

Hi
Iam impressed you seem to have worked through just about every problem that could arise, must have been a long painful process.
Sorry for all the questions but I was wondering if you intend to put a suppressor on the uzi. If you are stuck for a way to mount I may be able to help.

Indeed, I have been thinking about doing it. At the moment my thoughts go along the lines of removing the suppressor's rear cap, and creating an adaptor that allows me to screw the silencer in place of the UZI muzzle nut.

Future projects would include creating different rear caps to allow mounting on a variety of weapons systems.

However, they are on hold for the time being, as the machine shop owner who did the work agreed to do it only because he knows I'm an honest guy who is doing this for entertainment. If I go to him with more ideas, I risk damaging my image in his eyes.

Hi
I see, not worth pushing a good thing to far, never know when you may need him in the future.
As far as the uzi we are thinking along the same lines. There is a guy selling something that I believe would be pretty much what you would be looking for or could be easily modified .
I,ll email you a link to what i'am thinking of.

Relevant to this thread....


Suppressor Internals:

http://demovision.blog.bg/viewpost.php?id=198619

Some most have you have probably already seen, some most of you have probably never seen.

Also, look at the one on the Mak, looks just like Lava's.

somtec, by all means mail me that link please.

indeed 5.56, the one on the Makarov resembles mine a lot. Save for being thinner. And the baffle chambers rounded.
I wish I had more money to try my hand at a new design. But I stand by what I measured, the flat baffles are the most effective; no one else that I know of has managed 114 dB out of a 10" barrel with 9mm AP loads.
And at $95 cost for each silencer, I doubt the market can turn up something cheaper while keeping it as effective. I'd love to make it better nonetheless.

You need to get into metalworking a little. Do you see what I see? Suppressed Luger. Sexy.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=318745

You need to get into metalworking a little. Do you see what I see? Suppressed Luger. Sexy.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=318745

Thanks for that. I totally have to try to adapt that to my Luger. :D

Thanks for that. I totally have to try to adapt that to my Luger. :D

You're welcome. You won't need the LID/Nielsen device/recoil booster for the Luger, but if you make it... you can use it on both the Luger and the Hi Power!

You're welcome. You won't need the LID/Nielsen device/recoil booster for the Luger, but if you make it... you can use it on both the Luger and the Hi Power!

Well, the Luger can't cycle with the suppressor, so it would help.
I don't know about the HP tho. I made the mistake of designing the suppressors with a 15mm x 28 thread instead of the 1/2" x 28 industry standard, just because old German weapons have a 15mm x 0.8mm thread, which means I'll need to design an adaptor for "normal" weapons (or just replace the rear end cap with one of 1/2" x 28 thread).
Also I don't have an extended barrel for the HP, but I might look into it now that I'm having it upgraded to Mk III standard.