Is there any way to fix scratches on a gun?

Nope, you have to kill yourself first. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Is there any way to fix scratches on a gun?

Yes, there is.

/thread

Seriously though, it depends on the finish.

Yes, there is.

/thread

Seriously though, it depends on the finish.


its blued

its blued

Try buying the Birchwood Casey rebluing kit. You can find it at almost any gun- store. The instructions inside are self explanatory.

If the scratches are too deep, you may blue them over, but you will still feel them.

Pictures would help.
Thanks,
LavaRed.

P.S.: Use doctor's latex gloves when rebluing. It prevents the grease on the skin from messing up your finish, plus it prevents you smelling like rebluing acid for weeks.

P.S.: Use doctor's latex gloves when rebluing. It prevents the grease on the skin from messing up your finish, plus it prevents you smelling like rebluing acid for weeks.

I always wear gloves when I clean my guns. Anti-gun propaganda aside, lead and solvent absorption are a serious health risk.

I always wear gloves when I clean my guns. Anti-gun propaganda aside, lead and solvent absorption are a serious health risk.

For real? :eek:
OH S**T!
And me I've spent the last 4 years eating, sleeping and basically living in the same room in which I clean, work and test my guns, full of solvent jars and chemicals and stuff.
I'm dead I guess :(.

For real? :eek:
OH S**T!
And me I've spent the last 4 years eating, sleeping and basically living in the same room in which I clean, work and test my guns, full of solvent jars and chemicals and stuff.
I'm dead I guess :(.

Same here.

For real? :eek:
OH S**T!
And me I've spent the last 4 years eating, sleeping and basically living in the same room in which I clean, work and test my guns, full of solvent jars and chemicals and stuff.
I'm dead I guess :(.

Same.

I sometimes use gloves when i have open cuts on my hands because Sweets 762 solvent stings like a bitch.

Try buying the Birchwood Casey rebluing kit. You can find it at almost any gun- store. The instructions inside are self explanatory.

If the scratches are too deep, you may blue them over, but you will still feel them.

Pictures would help.
Thanks,
LavaRed.

P.S.: Use doctor's latex gloves when rebluing. It prevents the grease on the skin from messing up your finish, plus it prevents you smelling like rebluing acid for weeks.

Is that what you used to refinish your Hi Power? I was thinking of using Brownells OxphoBlue but want opinions about other brands as well.

Because the finish on the front and back straps of mine is completely gone.

Also, did you do any prep work besides degreasing?

Because I know a lot of people bead blast the gun first, but I'm not set up to do that.

If I was I'd just parkerize it.


Also, yes, rebluing acid has a horrible smell. I dumped some excess down the sink in my garage and it blued the steel drain pipe on the inside. Everytime I ran water in there I would get assaulted by the smell.

It sucked, lol.

It sucked, lol.

Plus your tube will severely rust and corrode over time. Blueing acid tends to do that if constantly exposed to moisture.

The High Power I duracoated, but it flaked off too fast so I'll just reblue it soon. Plus I'm having some new Trijicon night sights installed and the walnut grips refinished (these were original walnut grips off a Nazi HP so they are special to me, but they are a bit battered). :cool:.

I reblued my Winchester 94 with it, my k98, and several other pieces, with great results.

As for prepping, I have developed my own procedure which works way better than the one in the instruction booklet, at least for full reblueing.

Firstly, I wash the parts in thinner, to completely degrease them and expose rust that may be hidden under oil. If the previous finish is not rusted, I will just strip it off with steel wool, until the bare metal shows, then use rust and blue remover to take off potential rust not visible to the naked eye. After I again wash the piece in clean thinner. Repeat until the metal is completely bare.

Once satisfied, I proceed to apply Perma Blue paste, not liquid, onto a thick paper towel, and vigorously rub it into the piece until all areas are venly covered. I then polish it with dry paper towel until it is very even (this has to be done in under a minute), and then wash the piece in thinner. This first step gives you a precious sapphire blue colour which is very durable.

Then I moisten a clean paper towel with liquid Super Blue solution, rub it in vigorously to the piece, polish with paper towel, and wash with thinner (this has to be done in under 30 seconds or microscopic rust starts to form).

Repeat step two a further time, and if you want a darker, deeper finish, repeat step one after. No gun I have ever worked has needed more than 3 to four applications per piece.

Then you need to let the piece cure for 24 hours or so, and for this you wash it in thinner one last time, then polish it with a clean cotton cloth, and finally completely cover it in grease or cosmoline, and let it sit for 24 hours.
If the piece still smells of blueing acid after the curing period, you did something wrong and rust will eventually appear or the blue will wear off. The thinner washings should ensure that all excess blue was washed off.

For a partial reblueing or scratch repair I skip the stripping/blue removal step and just dry blue it with a couple passes of perma blue paste washed off with thinner in the area. I might add a third pass of Perma Blue if the piece is resilient.

But if the scratch has already developed rust (i.e., it appears slightly brown or exhibits pitting under a magnifying glass [stamp collector's 10x]), then you will have to strip it to bare metal. If you dont want a severe case of corrosion in 6 months.

Class Dismissed, thank you for listening,
LavaRed

Try buying the Birchwood Casey rebluing kit. You can find it at almost any gun- store. The instructions inside are self explanatory.

If the scratches are too deep, you may blue them over, but you will still feel them.

Pictures would help.
Thanks,
LavaRed.

P.S.: Use doctor's latex gloves when rebluing. It prevents the grease on the skin from messing up your finish, plus it prevents you smelling like rebluing acid for weeks.

yea the scratch is deep,done with a screwdriver by accident, its a high standard victor, i dont have pics..thanks for the info is there any where else i can find a reblueing kit ? not too many gunshops in the immediate area and dont have a car atm

Order it from one of the gun shops online, either use a credit card or deposit money into their bank.

yea the scratch is deep,done with a screwdriver by accident, its a high standard victor, i dont have pics..thanks for the info is there any where else i can find a reblueing kit ? not too many gunshops in the immediate area and dont have a car atm

Ok, we can fix that.
Carefully, very carefully, take some # 400, the most fine, jewelry polish style thing, and softly sand around the area, trying to smooth out the scratch. It should be out after some 3 minutes of polishing. Then reblue. If the scratch does not come off lightly, then just reblue.

This is a bit of a pro job, but if you've ever sanded balsa wood before you'll be able to pull if off. If you doubt, don't.