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View Full Version : Resurrection: Building a DIY Game Cabinet


RDProgrammer
2008-11-03, 22:53
Hello All,

Remember this:
http://www.totse.com/community/showthread.php?t=2162592

Well, although my schedule got behind, the project is now underway. I have drafted up quite a few 3D models and have decided on a final design (although please make suggestions, I can still make changes). The idea of the cabinet is to have a "close to the wall" design that resembles older Game Cabinets but definitely screams "Modern!" Due to this wish I am thinking a vibrant Yellow for the paint with all black accents. The accents would be at 90 degree inside (concave) seems and the control panel and screen border will be black as well as around the openings for cables as shown in the renders below.

For a little background, I am a student government leader at my university (Univ. of Oklahoma) and run an office where students can come and rent pool, ping pong, etc equipment. We also maintain a lounge in the office where students are encouraged to "hang out." This is more my choice than a policy. Furthermore, there is an ongoing competition for which office/lounge area is most involved with students (with substantial funding provided for the winners). The game cabinet is one thing I hope to have as an attractant (even though it is mostly for me to use).

I am still hoping for lots of suggestions on the design or additional features. The cabinet is designed around a PC and a 26" TV on which to play the games. The computer is going to be running linux and emulating as many systems as possible. The control panel is highly modular so that any array of controls can be designed. Additionally there is a control panel component for controller-to-USB adapters for PS1, Xbox 360, N64, SNES and any other systems I end up adding (possibly Sega if I can find the adapters). The modular system works by having each piece of the control panel's components wired to a Cat5 cable that is then plugged into a control board under the panel. This way if you want "button 1 and 2" on your left you move them then plug the cable back into the "button 1 and 2" spot on the control board (see renders). The way I have drawn this up each button will correspond to a key on the keyboard in such a way that up to 7 buttons (or contacts of any kind) can be wired through one cat5 cable. This will mean that you can have a 2, 4, 6, or 7 button-per-panel modular piece for the control board all going to the same spot on the control panel (see renders again, hard to explain, easier to see). Furthermore under the control panel is a slide-out keyboard possibly with a touchpad (If I can find such a device) for controlling the cabinet with another keyboard and mouse hidden inside.

Sorry to ramble, but I think the many heads of Totse can likely find anything I missed. The design has an 8" by 6' tall open space in the back that is used to house the inner workings while the front part is for the I/O workings. This space is used for (from bottom to top): sandbags or bricks to add weigh and prevent tipping over, the power cables and computer that runs it all, the TV that displays everything, and at the top the ventilation and speaker area. I am going to have some 6" or so fans creating a negative pressure in the case that will cause air to be lifted away from the computer. There will be some smaller fans near the bottom drawing air in as well.

Lastly, the Cabinet is also designed to be a regular TV so all the inputs will be preserved and extended such that a 360 or Wii could be hooked up easily as well as making it possible for the video output to be extended to something like a projector (which I own). For this reason there will be an input area on the side where other devices can be plugged in. Additionally there will be a built in sensor bar about the screen for Wii games.

The renders:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/RDProgrammer/FrontIsoView.png

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/RDProgrammer/TopFromBack.png

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/RDProgrammer/SideView.png

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/RDProgrammer/ControlPanel.png
This is the Control Panel with just one 6" wide module on it for scale. The modules have pegs that fit in the holes in the Panel walls.

Please make suggestions! I want this to be as awesome as possible. If you know of any great linux (Ubuntu) based emulators or controller-to-USB adapters let me know.

I am planning to build this of 1/2" ply wood reinforced at the joints with 2x2s. anyone have any suggestions on that? is 1/2" to little, 1" might be too much. 3/4"?

RDP

Spatula Tzar
2008-11-03, 23:58
First, don't wire the controls directly to a keyboard. Use a keyboard encoder. You'll save yourself much suffering this way.

The keyboard drawer is rather tacky, and would encourage people to mess with the computer. Use a wireless keyboard stashed away, or simply log in remotely.

I used 1/2" particle board with 2x2's for the corners in my cabinet, and it plenty sturdy. 5/8" is standard for commercial cabinets. You won't need sandbags. It will be plenty heavy on its own.

Why 26"? Old TVs are free these days, so you might as well go for the fanciest 32" trinitron you can find in a dumpster. Or check on free sites like craigslist.

I love the colour scheme though. Bright yellow is my favourite.

Cuntbag
2008-11-04, 01:58
What is your position on the student gov't?

RDProgrammer
2008-11-04, 05:03
First, don't wire the controls directly to a keyboard. Use a keyboard encoder. You'll save yourself much suffering this way.

This is what I am doing, sorry to not be clear.

The keyboard drawer is rather tacky, and would encourage people to mess with the computer. Use a wireless keyboard stashed away, or simply log in remotely.
The cabinet is always in a high traffic (me trafficking) area when others are around. I like the keyboard Idea because I want people that work in my office to be able to use it to check their email.

Why 26"? Old TVs are free these days, so you might as well go for the fanciest 32" trinitron you can find in a dumpster. Or check on free sites like craigslist.

I am using an LCD TV to make the whole thing smaller. I know it takes some away from the retro design but I like the updated look.

I'd love to see pics of your work....

To Cuntbag, I am the President of one of our dorm centers. I organize events and run my office as well as work on all campus or housing wide events and projects.

RDP

Spatula Tzar
2008-11-04, 10:19
Here are some pics. They were taken before I got a decent camera, so try to ignore the low quality.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/266/cab2il1.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6360/cp1zt8.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6196/speaker1il7.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4601/cab4ke7.jpg

This is the control panel for a different cabinet:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5650/cpcut1dy4.jpg

-----

After seeing the small base, it definitely needs some sort of support to prevent it from tipping over. The easiest thing to do is bolt it to the wall. One or two screws into studs should hold it nicely. If you can't drill holes, consider making the base larger. Maybe just extending the plywood of the sides near the bottom. It will add support and still leave legroom.

One big problem I always see with arcade cabinets is dust. The top will collect mountains of dust bunnies, especially since it's sloped towards the wall. I'm not really sure how to prevent it, but keep it in mind for any taller users. No one likes looking at dust.

If you have decent electronics skills and don't mind voiding your warranty, I highly recommend removing the TV from its case and mounting the bezel flush with the screen.

Kind of a random bit, but you might like it: One of my cabinets has an incredibly sexy accent piece I love. Just below the control panel is a 3" horizontal piece of plexiglass extending the width of the cabinet. I bevelled the edges smooth, and carefully polished it. I then sprayed the back surface with several coats of high gloss spray paint, and secured it to the cabinet. It's completely pointless, but very lovely, and adds elegance. I suggest painting it yellow to match the rest of the cabinet to avoid too much contrast.

Would the school fund this? Never hurts to ask, and using quality components would sure be nice. It would be great to involve other school departments as well. See if you can get the mechE people to cut it out on a CNC router, and get the art department to paint it.

RDProgrammer
2008-11-04, 12:36
Here are some pics. They were taken before I got a decent camera, so try to ignore the low quality.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/266/cab2il1.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6360/cp1zt8.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6196/speaker1il7.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4601/cab4ke7.jpg

This is the control panel for a different cabinet:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5650/cpcut1dy4.jpg

-----

After seeing the small base, it definitely needs some sort of support to prevent it from tipping over. The easiest thing to do is bolt it to the wall. One or two screws into studs should hold it nicely. If you can't drill holes, consider making the base larger. Maybe just extending the plywood of the sides near the bottom. It will add support and still leave legroom.

One big problem I always see with arcade cabinets is dust. The top will collect mountains of dust bunnies, especially since it's sloped towards the wall. I'm not really sure how to prevent it, but keep it in mind for any taller users. No one likes looking at dust.

If you have decent electronics skills and don't mind voiding your warranty, I highly recommend removing the TV from its case and mounting the bezel flush with the screen.

Kind of a random bit, but you might like it: One of my cabinets has an incredibly sexy accent piece I love. Just below the control panel is a 3" horizontal piece of plexiglass extending the width of the cabinet. I bevelled the edges smooth, and carefully polished it. I then sprayed the back surface with several coats of high gloss spray paint, and secured it to the cabinet. It's completely pointless, but very lovely, and adds elegance. I suggest painting it yellow to match the rest of the cabinet to avoid too much contrast.

Would the school fund this? Never hurts to ask, and using quality components would sure be nice. It would be great to involve other school departments as well. See if you can get the mechE people to cut it out on a CNC router, and get the art department to paint it.

School won't fund it and even if they would I'd do it myself because I plan to own it not leave it behind.

RDP

RDProgrammer
2008-11-13, 05:26
Alright, getting nearer to the time that we'd be starting to build this. Just looking for suggestions/comments. Wanna make sure all is done before i go blow $500 on this.

RDP