A few days ago, my old knife was lifted from me, and I just returned to my home town (where it is necessary for me to be holding at night).

This was my old knife:
http://tinyurl.com/5rjhgr

My past Gerber was wonderful, it was useful for many things.

I'm looking for a strong/durable knife that will be useful for everyday things, all the while being ready for self defensive purposes.

Necessities:
-Spring assisted blade
-Partially serrated
-Desired blade length: Somewhere around 3-4 inches

My price range is anywhere from $25 to around $60

I was considering this blade:
http://tinyurl.com/62b27j

which would be very useful as it has a seat belt cutter and window punch
(as well, I was considering simply getting my original blade again, although am still looking around)

Does anyone have any suggestions, or personal accounts of experience with particular knives?

Kershaw makes some great assisted openers. Don't know if they'd be in your price range though.

Is assisted opening really necessary? If you were willing to forego that requirement, it'll really open up your options in your price range. Knives like the crkt m16, hell you might be able to find a benchmade griptilian for around 70 if you hunt online.

If you're set on it though, definitely check out kershaw.

Check out the Kershaw Leek. They're great knives and the newer ones are made with upgraded steel.

Kershaw makes some great assisted openers. Don't know if they'd be in your price range though.

Is assisted opening really necessary? If you were willing to forego that requirement, it'll really open up your options in your price range. Knives like the crkt m16, hell you might be able to find a benchmade griptilian for around 70 if you hunt online.

If you're set on it though, definitely check out kershaw.

Yeah, I've been looking at Kershaw as well, and have heard good things about their knives. The main reason I was primarily looking at a Gerber is simply because I've had personal experience with them before.

Spring assisted is not absolutely necessary, although it has helped me in a few situations, so it is preferred.


Check out the Kershaw Leek. They're great knives and the newer ones are made with upgraded steel.

Thank you for the suggestion. I've been considering this:

http://tinyurl.com/Kershaw-Ken-Onion-Leek

http://tinyurl.com/Leek-Demonstration

I like Gerbers, but I also like Kershaw probably a little more. The Leek should be in the upper area of your price range.

Honestly, any ten dollar folder will do the same job and you won't cry about it when you get epoxy all over the blade. In my experience these knives are just as if not more durable. Don't be another victim to novelty.

Benchmade Griptillian, SOG Flash? Kershaw isnt bad either.

Im just not a fan of anything Gerber. Shoddy quality control, even if they are good with replacing stuff.

Personally I'm a big fan of butter knives.

Personally I'm a big fan of butter knives.

hahAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

If you can live with a non-serrated blade, check out a Buck Sirus. They are American-made, for whatever that's worth. MSRP is $80-100, but you should be able to find one discounted. I sell mine for $59.95.

I've got a crkt m16-13sf. Its a pretty cool folder.

Switchblades and flickknives are illegal here but this is just as quick. Just flick the hilt with your thumb and it pops open and locks.

http://i42.tinypic.com/6oemj8.jpg

Carry it pretty much everywhere on the farm with me. Used it to skin sheep and rabbits, have stabbed it through corrugated iron (double lock mech). Not that expensive and a nice knife.

I've got a crkt m16-13sf. Its a pretty cool folder.

Switchblades and flickknives are illegal here but this is just as quick. Just flick the hilt with your thumb and it pops open and locks.

http://i42.tinypic.com/6oemj8.jpg

Carry it pretty much everywhere on the farm with me. Used it to skin sheep and rabbits, have stabbed it through corrugated iron (double lock mech). Not that expensive and a nice knife.
"Nah, that knife is just anovelty knife because I am too cheap to buy something like that and since I don't like it that means its just novelty! You definetly should get a chinese knife that is made of poor quality steel,wont hold an edge, and poor quality components that will fall apart in a week because I think they are better and they are not novelty. any 10$ chinese knife is better than that novelty knife you have there. "

Get what you like not what people on here like The return tell you should get. get something quality made, durable, and affordable for you.

poor quality steal,.

high quality fayle

God damn, lay off of the fucking drugs.

I use a M-Tech folder at work. Its 440c steel and It requires sharpening almost every day. I'm thinking about getting a spiderco with VG-10 blade.

Requirements:
Blade shorter than 4"
Non-assisted folder
440c or better blade
Tanto style blade/edge

Look semi-decent...

Any suggestions?

I like Gerbers, but I also like Kershaw probably a little more. The Leek should be in the upper area of your price range.

Yeah, it turns out that one of my good friends ordered the Leek about two weeks ago.

Naturally, I got my hands on it. It was a nice knife, incredibly smooth and easy to use. The main problem that I had with it, is that it was so goddamn skinny and sleek.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the knife, although I got the feeling that every time I pulled this knife out, I would risk the potential of it slipping out of my hand.

My Leek very quickly became my EDC. The slim profile doesn't intrude on one's pocket, and the speedsafe opening is ridiculously quick. Do note that the coated [black] blades are a little slow out of the box, but they'll break in quickly.

I have a puma "hand made novelty knife" that i received as a gift. i looked it up and it goes for about $80.00, it seems decent for the money.

I use a M-Tech folder at work. Its 440c steel and It requires sharpening almost every day. I'm thinking about getting a spiderco with VG-10 blade.

Requirements:
Blade shorter than 4"
Non-assisted folder
440c or better blade
Tanto style blade/edge

Look semi-decent...

Any suggestions?

Native with S30V steel. I absolutely love Spyderco knives.

Oh, oops. You really want a tanto? The only thing coming to mind is the C-46 Tanto Bob Lum/Spyderco collaboration knife, which would be perfect for your needs, just expensive and discontinued.

I've got a crkt m16-13sf. Its a pretty cool folder.

Switchblades and flickknives are illegal here but this is just as quick. Just flick the hilt with your thumb and it pops open and locks.

http://i42.tinypic.com/6oemj8.jpg

Carry it pretty much everywhere on the farm with me. Used it to skin sheep and rabbits, have stabbed it through corrugated iron (double lock mech). Not that expensive and a nice knife.

It is sooo sharp factory. My friend was able to cut TOBACCO LEAVES vertically with it. Awesome knife for starfruit too.

Anyone have any tips on knife sharpening. i have attempted it and I just ruin the edge. Can someone give me a brief procedure for sharpening a knife?

How did you try to sharpen? Systems such as the Spyderco Sharpmaker and the Edgemaker make sharpening extremely simple. I [i]highly recommend them because they make it easy to maintain a uniform angle during sharpening. Gatco and Lanskys are alright too.

Basically, you shave a rock with your knife, only the rock shaves away your blade metal at what is supposed to be a uniform angle. You progress to finer grit stones, and then if you want a mirror polish, you strop it, which is the opposite motion to what you use on a stone for (you lead with the spine of the blade). Youtube and google say it in much greater detail, and I'm real tired, so I'll just try and answer questions after you see some of the site and videos out there if that's cool.

How did you try to sharpen? Systems such as the Spyderco Sharpmaker and the Edgemaker make sharpening extremely simple. I [i]highly recommend them because they make it easy to maintain a uniform angle during sharpening. Gatco and Lanskys are alright too.

Basically, you shave a rock with your knife, only the rock shaves away your blade metal at what is supposed to be a uniform angle. You progress to finer grit stones, and then if you want a mirror polish, you strop it, which is the opposite motion to what you use on a stone for (you lead with the spine of the blade). Youtube and google say it in much greater detail, and I'm real tired, so I'll just try and answer questions after you see some of the site and videos out there if that's cool.

Just with a double sided stone that has a fine and coarse grit on it. I have not attempted to do it to my new puma fixed blade because I don't want to mess up the edge(it is pretty sharp right now) but i have tried on cheap folder knives before. i imagine a fixed blade that is pretty large may be a little more difficult also?

i never thought to look on youtube, that is probably the bes tip you could give me since i am a better visual learner, thanks.

You probably aren't holding the angle steady along the entirety of the blade. I am not going to lie- it can be difficult, especially at first. It's easier on a strop.

You're welcome. I know you're probably looking at a sharpmaker and thinking "fifty bucks plus shipping? Screw that." They work. If you decide sharpening by hand isn't for you (and it takes longer), I honestly recommend a sharpmaker or similar. It's the best in its price point. The Lansky Crock sticks are cheaper and can work too.

Native with S30V steel. I absolutely love Spyderco knives.

Oh, oops. You really want a tanto? The only thing coming to mind is the C-46 Tanto Bob Lum/Spyderco collaboration knife, which would be perfect for your needs, just expensive and discontinued.


S30V is far too brittle I'd go with ZDP 189 or the laminated.

but for multipurpose i think vg-10 is the most value for money type thing. and you can get a wide range of knives made in it.
Falkniven make some awesome looking knives out of it.

S30V is far too brittle I'd go with ZDP 189 or the laminated.

but for multipurpose i think vg-10 is the most value for money type thing. and you can get a wide range of knives made in it.
Falkniven make some awesome looking knives out of it.

Depends on the use. Most upper level cutlery companies are using S30V and it works great for small knives. Strider has their BT, a large knife, with S30V. I have yet to hear too many complaints with a proper heat treat and sharpening.

Yeah, i guess so, but for kitchens I don't think meat and stuff is hard enough to crack anything:P

but for multipurpose stuff id still go with the ZDP- 189 or if you are on a budget the VG-10.

there are some videos on you tube where they test out a falkniven knife which is made out of VG-10 and take it to concrete and lovely stuff like that.

Yeah, i guess so, but for kitchens I don't think meat and stuff is hard enough to crack anything:P

but for multipurpose stuff id still go with the ZDP- 189 or if you are on a budget the VG-10.

there are some videos on you tube where they test out a falkniven knife which is made out of VG-10 and take it to concrete and lovely stuff like that.

Crack? More like shatter.

Why anyone would take a knife, much less of stainless steel, to concrete is beyond me. The Strider knife I mentioned lasted awhile versus concrete, and by cutley, I mean knives made by Kershaw, Spyderco, Benchmade, Chris Reeves....

shatter? i dont think meat would shatter a knife.?

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=S0RznHAZKXc&feature=related

you wanna start watching at about 5 mins in. hes already taken it through the cement and jumped up and down on it... one hell of a tough knife.

Crack? More like shatter.

Why anyone would take a knife, much less of stainless steel, to concrete is beyond me.

They seem to be under the mistaken impression it's testing anything other then using it as a jackhammer.

Oh? jack hammer? they use the blade for most of it, not the tip.

shatter? i dont think meat would shatter a knife.?

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=S0RznHAZKXc&feature=related

you wanna start watching at about 5 mins in. hes already taken it through the cement and jumped up and down on it... one hell of a tough knife.

S30V doesn't crack as much as chip and/or shatter in the case of catastrophic failure. And no, I don't mean that meat would crack, shatter, or chip the knife. I thought you were talking about concrete. You do seem fairly impressed (and for good reason) that the Fallkniven you mention made it through. It is impressive, but I see little practical use for that if it's at the expense of edge retention.

I don't see what that knife test proves, though. It's great if you want to use your knife as some other implement. If you want to see S30V in action, here: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=U-KpXhfsVc0

Skip to about 6:13 to see it baton through some thick pressure-treated wood. Don't tell me you'd use your knife on much anything harder. It's not meant to hammer through cement. Worst case scenario, if I HAD to choose a knife to do that with, I'd probably just use a high carbon steel knife. They're real cheap.

I guess, but i did notice he took it through the wood length ways and split it. He took fallkniven A1 through two 2" by4"'s width ways with just him chopping at it with his hand and a vice.

and from what I've quickly looked over, the A1 is around half the price of the strider BT model...

I guess, but i did notice he took it through the wood length ways and split it. He took fallkniven A1 through two 2" by4"'s width ways with just him chopping at it with his hand and a vice.

and from what I've quickly looked over, the A1 is around half the price of the strider BT model...

I'm not recommending the Strider BT model, so that's irrelevant. The OP hasn't given a price range, blade length, type (folder locktype or fixed blade), or any use for the knife. If he just wanted to mostly cut with it, S30V, when properly touched up, has excellent edge retention.

lol I think he was looking for a flick knife... we both fail:P

Those things they call 'tactical folders' can be opened just as quick as a switch blade, benefit of the folder, is with a switchie, when you press the button, inertia gives you a bit of 'recoil'. Also, less parts to break.

Are the Al Mar Sere folders S30V also? I'm not going to google it.

But yeah, $$$ comes in to consideration.

I doubt you could get any sort of flick made out of s30v for 60$:P

but spyderco has a few for around that price in vg-10.

but for general multipurpose Smith&Wesson make some pretty damn cool little 30$ flicks make out of 440c which for self defense or whatever is fine I think:P

as long as your not gonna do anything insane with it, should be just fine.

Ive got a "Gerber steadfast" sitting in my drawer which is made outta 440c and it goes just fine.

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/gerber/images/1120.jpg

This is really funny, people are acting like the fact that it can withstand usage as a jackhammer is irrelevant. If something can withstand being used as a jackhammer, prybar, etc, it is good enough for any job such as cutting flesh, bone, prying open shit, etc. Most people that are obsessed with knives don't even use them, they're just collector's pieces. How many of you use your knives for tasks more strenuous than opening boxes, and what are these applications? If the cheapest knies that R_L mentioned are the toughest, why would you pay more for a designer knife that is weaker? If the cheap knife can do anything S30v can, but not vice versa, why do you subscribe to sharp metal elitism? No one can answer this question, nor has anyone ever done so, all they do is say "you dont use a knife as a jackhammer it has different applications!1111". This is because there is no answer, they're wrong. Use common sense. Thank you for your time.

Superiority complex much?

I have mine for pig hunting... go figure, pig hunting knife... for pig hunting... shoot me...

and lets see anybody that works in meat works...

the list goes on?

wait, is there something wrong with collecting knives? or is that just you?

wheres the love? lol

:)

If something can withstand being used as a jackhammer, prybar, etc, it is good enough for any job such as cutting flesh, bone, prying open shit, etc.

*sigh*

Any knife made of hard enough steel to keep a good edge on it will chip or shatter when used against concrete. Hardness and toughness are opposing properties.

not necessarily...

vg-10 has got to be in the top 5 for edge retention that I've seen... and it didn't shatter...


and thats what makes the samurai's so awesome, with the whole tempering with the clay and stuff.

( if you don't know what I'm talking bout about the samurai's well not themselves but anyway, they would put clay of the back of the swords and the sides in a sort of pattern in different thicknesses, the edge didn't have any though.

so the edge would be hardened lots but the spine would be softer so you would have a razor sharp cutting edge without making the blade brittle.)

I doubt you could get any sort of flick made out of s30v for 60$:P

but spyderco has a few for around that price in vg-10.

but for general multipurpose Smith&Wesson make some pretty damn cool little 30$ flicks make out of 440c which for self defense or whatever is fine I think:P

as long as your not gonna do anything insane with it, should be just fine.

Ive got a "Gerber steadfast" sitting in my drawer which is made outta 440c and it goes just fine.

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/gerber/images/1120.jpg

The Spyderco Native costs $40. I'm not sure what you mean by a "flick" knife, but if you mean automatic or assisted opening, Spyderco doesn't offer any such knives in VG-10 or any material. You really don't need that as the Natives I've owned come out very rapidly, and can be opened faster than knives such as the Kershaw blackout, whirlwind, and leek in my experience. If one really wanted, the S30V Blur from Kershaw and the S30V Leek are about $50 and $60 respectively.

I've got a few of the Taylor Cutlery knives marketed as S&W. 440C is about industry average, but if you're cutting material like carpet, which is abrasive, and don't want to stop and sharpen your knife all day (back when I did a little construction), trust me, the S30V has a huge advantage. Cutting carpet isn't insane. Hammering your knife through concrete is.

I'm not even going to martian's post other than to say the "cheapest knives" (which he is calling due to my carbon steel comment) also don't their edge as long as S30V, they stain easier (they rust away if not oiled), and are not superior in every aspect. They are tough knives... that's it. The edge will literally be eaten away by corrosion if not maintained.

not necessarily...

vg-10 has got to be in the top 5 for edge retention that I've seen... and it didn't shatter...

I'm going to generalize because steels such as H1 work harden, particularly in serrated blades, so you have a lot of variables we'll have to ignore (edge geometry, grind bevel angle, rockwell hardness) and grossly oversimplify.

S30V, S60V, S90V, D2 semi-stainless tool steel, ZDP-189, CPM-15V, SGPS, and BG-42 can all arguably be better at edge retention than VG-10, and none will shatter if you understand the limitations of the knife. Does it really matter? Probably not.

S30V is an extremely hard, brittle knife. If you take a large knife like that which won't hold up to lateral stress or direct impact as much due to increased torque forces, and then either chop or pry with them (which the OP probably wouldn't do much of), they will be at risk of failing or performing less well than steels with an increased toughness. However, if you want stain resistance and good cutting ability, these knives will perform better.

I have a real problem with people carrying knives for self defence.

Mainly, because they have no idea what they are doing and aren't going to enjoy a knife fight.

Think about the blood spurting everywhere, and the psychological impact that is going to have. Of course, having done pig sticking, you would know what to expect, the screaming, the blood spurts, etc etc.

It's one thing to kill an animal that just screams. It's another to kill a human that you know for a fact has emotion, will scream, look at you, mouth words such as "I'm dying, why me, please God" etc etc.

If someone pulls a knife on you, and doesn't stab you, chances are, they are not going to stab you and are trying to scare you, best bet is to pull coins out, throw them at the face, run away, or if hands go to face, kick them in the balls and then run away. Or, alternatively, just comply.

Mindset is a lot different to actually doing something, when fear/adrenaline take over, that Rambo persona goes out the window. You need training, or meditation/reflection on such a situation. Having a visual thought pattern helps a lot also. You know, those people who think in pictures.

The only way to have a clean knife fight and not get totally traumatised, if novice, is to find a way to get someone silently, with minimal blood, resistance. Hint, do not go for arteries and get them by surprise.

However, that is not a fight, but an assassination.

And any knife tough (when I say tough, I mean durable all around) to resist shattering when hammered in to concrete will resist shattering when applied to a variety objects at high velocities than a knife that will not. This is fact, so why are you arguing for S30V and designer knives?

*sigh*

Any knife made of hard enough steel to keep a good edge on it will chip or shatter when used against concrete. Hardness and toughness are opposing properties.

I'll let you in on a secret.

For camping, I have a Gerber Backpack axe. Nice and small. I also have some machetes (also make a good ranged weapon), I have a TOPS Lone Falcone (blast match in pouch). Also, a SOG Tac Elite, I think it's called. Not really a camping knife that one. Also have a smallish pot with handle for cooking.

For water, I have a quality wetsuit (no weight belt, want to be able to float when sleeping!), top of the line mask, snorkel, fins, gloves, booties, SOG SEAL 2000, Gerber Guardian.

For urban, I have a sports bag with clothes of various fashion, jewellry, designer sunglasses, useful books, perhaps unavailable training manuals, survival books, things like that.

My minute to go back has balaclavas, camouflage gear, beanies, cooking utensils, the Lone Falcone, no sleeping gear (make your own when you get there) sharpening gear, fire starting gear and pre learned knowledge.

Might have to actually check again one of these days!

That's about it.

I also have, permanently ready to go (perhaps I take it everywhere), a smallish survival kit. Contains fishing line in say 2-300m length, IGFA rated so you know it's good. Sicut Leilira, hooks, sinkers, swivels, as well as a top of the line Gerber multi tool (not in the case, kept seperate) have wire saws (NATO issue), Swedish fire starter, sharpening stone. Top of the line compass (think hundreds of dollars worth SILVA).

Scattered around, ready to go in the same bags, I have camouflage gear, balaclavas, things necessary to perhaps rob banks and other gangster organisations (such as police stations, convoys), Lansky sharpening kit, Jewelstik, more firestarting gear, more miscellaneous stuff. Need to get me a folding shovel one of these days, in case I find buried treasure!

Fire is easy to make as long as the tinder/logs are not wet, and you don't have fire starting gear.

Also have a wind up am/fm radio, water resistant, takes headphones, and had a LED light on it. Useful for hearing the information the enemy wants us to know, if it ever comes down to it.

Also got paracord and hootchie cord around too. And a quality tent, sleeping bag, low profile mattress.

Do not forget a more then basic first aid kit.

Do not rely on one knife for anything.

However, if I had to, it would be the Lone Falcone, with the Gerber Multi and the survival kit.

I am giving serious considering to a couple of Boker blades, purely as weapons, not tools, these would not be bagged, but kept accessible with the survival kit for a 1 minutes notice run.

Keep some firearms and ammunition accessible, but not at home. A speargun is good to go if you have diving equipment, and works great under water.

Yeah I know, I'm nuts. I also know I've probably had more training than most of you here. Take from that what you will.

Why should we care about what "secrets" you can let us in on? Even Jodevilgod1, an ex-ranger brings nothing to the table on these forums. I vividly remember a picture of yourself you posted on this website, you are a lanky brokeback kid from northern Europe, you were brandishing a knife and holding it in some flamingly gay stance like a "crane" stance and you had a ski mask on your face. What "training" have you had besides reading military .PDFs off of globalsecurity and playing around with a scarecrow in your backyard?

I'm Australian.

I can tell you, I have had contact with SASR members, past and present.

I can tell you, I have had contact with ASIS members.

I can tell you, I have had contact with DSD members.

I can tell you I have observed operational US Navy systems in action in a CIC.

I can tell you I have received hand to hand training from ex members of the ADF.

I can tell you I have met the former boss of Australian SOCOM.

I can tell you I have met high profile Australian politicians.

I can tell you European royalty has accepted food from me.

I can tell you I know close family member of a particular Mr Gerry Adams.

I can tell you a former member of an east coast CT team has shown me methods of killing.

I have also been on the payroll of a particular person who has been on the payroll of the CIA.

I've never posted, to my recollection (easily wrong), a picture of me with a ski mask (balaclava), on this website. Maybe on others, but I'd also include a real photo of myself with that.

I do know for a fact I have posted a proper facial photo of me on this website. On more than one occasion.

Any more assumptions you would like to make? Please, go ahead, fuckface.

Oh okay, just as I expected, you have no training you simply claim to have met people who have. Wonderful! Who hasn't talked to a mechanic or a soldier or an engineer? You do realize there are actually a good deal of people on here who are actively serving in militaries, some of them even stationed in Iraq? Do you not realize what a mall ninja you are? Perhaps one day you will.

You do realise the people I claim to have met and associated with, and been taught moves by, are not even allowed to acknowledge who they work for, and can go to gaol for discussing anything? If you read my post carefully, you would find the part where I have written I have been trained.

Of course, detail is not going to be gone in to.

So anyway, tell me, were you ever offered a visit to Swanbourne (the SASR base), to try out their weapons, do some training, go through the kill houses, and other assorted fun stuff that would probably make you cream your pants at the idea of it?

I was.

Ever been asked to join the SASR at an age where it is 'officially' illegal to join at?

I have.

Go and fuck yourself.

No but I have met a number of people who claim to be ex-operator who actually ended up being cooks, and I assume you have as well. Unfortunately it looks like you were gullible enough to believe them. And, while we're at it, ever known what it's like to get laid?

When you get shown medals, berets, top secret manuals, moves, access to bases, permits to carry federal concealed weapons, you tend to believe them.

When two guys from two different SF units tell you things that check out with the other one, and these guys have not met each other, makes you wonder also.

Therefore, I assume you have never had a friend, or someone in your life, who you can have been able to trust completely.

I understand your walt scepticism.

People who are the real deal, judging by your style of posts, generally refuse to associate with your kind, and if they do, aren't going to tell you fuck all.

End of discussion.

I thought the part where I met the former boss of SOCOM might have raised some flags, or politicians, or foreign royalty, or having access to top secret USN equipment might have opened your eyes, but I guess you're fucked.

Enjoy! Second person to hit the ignore list.

gold n green dont bother. He is trolling you dude. intentionally arguing about nothing. You don't need to prove anything to that jackass. He is all talk, he talks down on people and asks for their credentials but he has shown no credentials himself for ANYTHING.
Martian LETS SEE YOUR CREDENTIALS? Remember how you claimed you were some kind of expert marksman and you shoot better than anyone? Well prove it then. You sit here and attack people and you are not anything special your self so you are jealous of all these people that actually have acheivments. This is probably why you hide behind a computer and troll all day. Then you try and insult people with "have you been laid," which just makes you look like an idiot. I am beginning to think more and more that are just some fat loser with no life and some shitty job and you live at your parents at the age of 35. That is how you make yourself feel better? By being constantly negative and condescending towards EVERYONE. you are the one who is NARCISSITIC.

Hey!

HEY!

Everybody just calm the fuck down!
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01692.jpg

And any knife tough (when I say tough, I mean durable all around) to resist shattering when hammered in to concrete will resist shattering when applied to a variety objects at high velocities than a knife that will not. This is fact, so why are you arguing for S30V and designer knives?

Toughness and hardness are very specific terms and have very specific meanings, especially when applied to steel.

Please learn what they are before continuing to make a fool of yourself.

Toughness and hardness are very specific terms and have very specific meanings, especially when applied to steel.

Please learn what they are before continuing to make a fool of yourself.

What is it with totseans and outright disregarding fact at will?

What is it with totseans and outright disregarding fact at will?

Stop redirecting. It doesn't work when the intended target is aware and knows even basic logic.

Apparently it does, otherwise you would not have made that reply and you would have put me on your ignore list.

And any knife tough (when I say tough, I mean durable all around) to resist shattering when hammered in to concrete will resist shattering when applied to a variety objects at high velocities than a knife that will not. This is fact, so why are you arguing for S30V and designer knives?

You're using the term "tough" improperly and in an impossible way (durable "all around" means nothing as the composition of a knife balances edge durability, knife malleability, resistance to deformation, resistance to shattering/chipping, resistance to rust/staining....).

I typically argue for production knives, not custom knives. The term "designer knife" means nothing.

You are grossly oversimplifying knives and cutting. You are using hacking as the only example of cutting when in fact cutting or slashing (two separate techniques) which are arguably more common tasks for a knife (use a hatchet for hacking) would be better suited to a stronger blade rather than a tougher one.

would be better suited to a harder blade rather than a tougher one.

Fixed. Hard your coffee yet RL?

lol by "flick knife" i meant... a knife you can fold.

wayyyy off topic...


hey, dude that posted the thread, have you gotten a knew knife already?

if not here's a cheap knife, I'm guessing its not going to be used much, if at all so quality doesn't really matter unless you just want to brag to your friends... 440c is pretty standard and will stay sharp for a while...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Knife-making-blade-Texas-Toothpick-Folder-S53_W0QQitemZ250346065926QQcmdZViewItemQQptZKnives ?hash=item250346065926&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

off topic threads fail....

Fixed. Hard your coffee yet RL?

Nope : -). I haven't slept a solid 6 hours in a long time either. I think people can probably tell.