When a law enforcement agency examines a spent shell casing, they can obviously determine the caliber of bullet, and sometimes the company that manufactured the gun that fired that bullet. But let's suppose that a certain shell casing came from a legally purchased Glock 19 9mm pistol, registered to John Smith. Would they be able to tell that the shell casing came from John Smith's Glock, or would they only be able to determine that it came from a Glock 19, not necessarily John Smith's? Wouldn't they have to test fire John's gun in order to find out if the casing under examination came from his gun?

A lot of that CSI shit is B.S.

From looking at the case you'd have a good idea that it came from a glock because of the weird striker markings they leave but you wouldn't be able to pick up two cases and say "That one come from a G17L and that one come from a G19".

Its all ballistics and science crap. It takes a whole lot more effort to find out where the bullet came from in detail like they try and scare you into believing. Not to mention its only going to be done for murder cases most likely since doing a ballistics tests costs a lot of money and resources to preform as far as the whole "what type of bullet was it, what kind of hand gun was it fired from, where was it bought, who was it registered to, etc.".

That kind of stuff can take days, weeks, months to decipher hence they only do true detailed ballistics tests on big cases. I'm not a cop so I can't really tell ya for sure but it has its limits. Pretty easy to look at a case and tell you what round was fired from it though :).

If you are accused of murder and you own a handgun, they might take take a sample from your weapon and compare the two to see if the primer strike and ejector markings/dings match.

Of course, as has been discussed before, on this very forum, the whole thing is complete BS because on several modern handguns, there are drop-in alternative caliber barrels you can order on line, use for a murder, then dispose of, in which case you'd be in the clear.

From a shell casing they can obviously determine the caliber and brand of ammo used, and often can determine the make of the weapon it was fired from.

As for taking a sample from your weapon, they'd need a warrant for that and unless they have some other evidence pointing at you, that's nothing you'd need to worry about.

Basically, there's nothing they can get from the shell casing that they cannot determine from a recovered bullet.

Shooting times had a pretty interesting article on ballistics investigations this month. But pretty much all of the good evidence hinged upon having the gun used in the crime to match extractor marks, machining marks from the boltface tranferred to the primer, firing pin marks, rifling marks, etc, etc.

Apparently, no one thinks to wear gloves when loading, so they sometimes get a decent fingerprint from an ejected casing. You'd feel a little silly if that's how they caught you.

You would think the heat generated from the shot would make the oils from your fingerprints either cook off or run/distort on the shell. I wouldn't know though.

Anyway.

If you can't figure out how to sanitise a gun that has been used in a crime, you're too stupid to commit said crime and are going to get caught anyway.

I'd have thought so too. I was told that by a very senior AFP cop my dad knows. Hell, maybe it burns in place and they laser print the bugger.

Remember to clean EVERYTHING! WEAR GLOVES WHEN HANDLING ANYTHING TO BE USED IN A CRIME!!!

1. Go to firing range, get rifle cases if you are using a rifle, or pistol cases if you are using a pistol. Make sure calibers are random, maybe rare, and definitely numerous.

2. Clean fingerprints off your cartridges, and firing range cartridges. Do not get innocent people involved in your misgivings.

3. Do your well planed crime, using the best technology the market has to offer.

4. Sell the crime gun, or keep it. They cannot finger you for shit.

Remember to clean EVERYTHING! WEAR GLOVES WHEN HANDLING ANYTHING TO BE USED IN A CRIME!!!

You would think the heat generated from the shot would make the oils from your fingerprints either cook off or run/distort on the shell. I wouldn't know though.

Anyway.

If you can't figure out how to sanitise a gun that has been used in a crime, you're too stupid to commit said crime and are going to get caught anyway.



Well when arsonists burn down a house or building a crime has taken place in its actually easier to get prints and evidence because the oils get basically stapled to the object because of the heat.


And agreed gloves, eye glasses and a cap are basics lol.

i remember seeing a baggy u can put on ur gun that will catch any spent casings. this would seem pretty valuable n a murder plan

i remember seeing a baggy u can put on ur gun that will catch any spent casings. this would seem pretty valuable n a murder plan


Its called a brass catcher. Does a damn fine job too. Its a shame the military doesn't bring it back, would save me countless hours policing up brass and links on the range :rolleyes:

i remember seeing a baggy u can put on ur gun that will catch any spent casings. this would seem pretty valuable n a murder plan

i have seen a few cases where a criminal makes a makeshift brass catcher with a grocery bag. i rember a particular one that they should on one of those muder documentry shows where a guy was killed in a van and they couldn't find any casings. Because the guy who killed him had a grocery bag on the mac 10/11 or tec 9 or clone of one of them.

If you really want to go the whole 9 yards, just wrap a large, strong transparent plastic bag around your whole gun and hand inside.
No casings, or much else to speak of.

If you really want to go the whole 9 yards, just wrap a large, strong transparent plastic bag around your whole gun and hand inside.
No casings, or much else to speak of.

this would help stop much of the powder and residue left on your target at point blank range, wouldnt it?

this would help stop much of the powder and residue left on your target at point blank range, wouldnt it?

Some of it I expect. But most of it will blow out the barrel with the bullet anyway.

Some of it I expect. But most of it will blow out the barrel with the bullet anyway.

yes, i suppose so. there wouldnt be a way to stop most of the residue, is there?

A suppressor would probably trap a lot of the gases and powder residue. That's what they're for in one way or another.

A suppressor would probably trap a lot of the gases and powder residue. That's what they're for in one way or another.

Took the words right out of my mouth.
A suppressor with a rubber end wipe will work the best to this end.

Which in fact, you don't really need the baffles and innards for if its going to have end wipes and be used a few times. Just put endcaps on a short (6") length of 1 1/4" PVC pipe and glue a rubber wipe on the final endcap and you're set. Stuff some steel wool and mesh around the bullet path for good measure and align with a wooden dowel. coat everything in lithium grease. Epoxy, glue, clamp, or attach by any solid means necessary to the gun. Don't expect it to work for more than 2 shots. 5 at the most.

Darn! I'm definitely not criminal- minded. Soda-pop bottle would have been simpler. :p

Darn! I'm definitely not criminal- minded. Soda-pop bottle would have been simpler. :p

if i ever get a gun and i am in sudden need of stealth, i will just go with this one lol its a teeny bit simpler :p ive seen this in movies before, but i hadnt thought of it wen i asked the question.

A revolver would eliminate spent casings at the scene, but then you would have to get rid of them later.

if i ever get a gun and i am in sudden need of stealth, i will just go with this one lol its a teeny bit simpler :p ive seen this in movies before, but i hadnt thought of it wen i asked the question.

Yeah, try it, but stuff it full of aluminum foil, I mean pack it real tight, and you'll be able to fire an ak through it and you'll get no sound! Make sure you secure the silencer real tight, though since it might come off.

A revolver would eliminate spent casings at the scene, but then you would have to get rid of them later.



True, which is probably why alot of criminals still use them in crimes. Kind of point, shoot, leave.

True, which is probably why alot of criminals still use them in crimes. Kind of point, shoot, leave.

I would think it is because they are cheaper, and easier to use.

Could you post pictures of some of the wipes you use? I'm trying to get an idea of what the optimal thickness would be and on the subject of wipes, how exactly do you "fit" them in to the pipe? Is it really as simple as cutting circular rubber shapes out that are the exact same/very slightly larger and pushing them in? This subject entices me. It would be wonderful if you could show us as many pictures possible of this type of supressor, even if they aren't your own work, but I can understand if you wouldn't want to do that on totse. Thanks for taking the time to consider this.

Edit: And I did catch that you mentioned gluing one wipe on to the end, but I'm talking about something more in the realm of four or five end wipes. Have you ever done something like that before?

Could you post pictures of some of the wipes you use? I'm trying to get an idea of what the optimal thickness would be and on the subject of wipes, how exactly do you "fit" them in to the pipe? Is it really as simple as cutting circular rubber shapes out that are the exact same/very slightly larger and pushing them in? This subject entices me. It would be wonderful if you could show us as many pictures possible of this type of supressor, even if they aren't your own work, but I can understand if you wouldn't want to do that on totse. Thanks for taking the time to consider this.

Edit: And I did catch that you mentioned gluing one wipe on to the end, but I'm talking about something more in the realm of four or five end wipes. Have you ever done something like that before?

Four to five end wipes make it too thick, thus interfering too much with the bullet's dynamics. And the sound reduction gained is almost negligible.

All of the designs I have tried are my own work, or at least improvements upon the ideas of others. Being an honest person and law abiding in everything that is moral, I have no fear of posting the baffles on my main cans. However, I'm not really into taking my suppressor apart at the moment, so I'll link you with the old pictures of them:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/LavaRed/DSC01657.jpg

The only difference is that I glued rubber washers (not wipes) on the back of the baffles, to minimize corrosion and wear. So far, the washers have worked admirably, except for the end washer on one can blowing out the front during the torture test. Subsequent investigation revealed the cause to be inssuficient adhesive on one side. None of the other washers has been thus affected.

There are lots of stuff you can do to your suppressors, but I stuck with the bare minimums, and I got very good results:
114 dB with the big can (10 wooden baffles) out of a 10 inch barrel, shooting 115 gr. 9mm Wolf ammunition.
119 dB- 121 dB out of the small cans (5 metal baffles) out of a 4 inch barrel, shooting 115 gr. 9mm Barnaul AP ammo.

These figures are for dry firing and remained consistent throughout the torture tests (50 rounds for the small can and around 100 for the large can).

When fired wet, the decibel readings remained the same, but the frequency sounded lower, which would, to my knowledge, reduce the distance the sound carries in an open space.

It is interesting to note that the large can, while constructed of less durable materials (wooden baffles, PVC expansion chamber, Scotch brite and steel wool heat sink), did not suffer any evident wear during the torture test and was cleaned from the soot with a dry rag, while the smaller can experienced some corrosion and rubber protector failure. No doubt, the smaller internal volume generates much higher pressures inside the can.
The large can was tested under fully automatic fire (MP40), in bursts of 2 and 3, while the smaller one was tested in semi automatic fire only (Luger P08).

To the best of my knowledge, either suppressor can surpass the industry standards in sound level suppression, no doubt because they were tuned individually. Also, the smaller cans cause virtually no shift in the mean point of impact, while the larger suppressor merely shifts point of impact slightly up. Groups remain consistent.

Thank you for listening,
LavaRed

Words cannot express my gratitude for that delightfully insightful work you have been so kind to bestow upon me. I hope I can continue to discuss this with you when my mind is clearer, because it's fascinating to learn about this from someone who actually has experience doing it.